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In a NY Fashion Week Minute: Spring Summer 2009

For those who may not have all the time in the world to see every single fashion show this past week, WWD has courteously provided a sweet compilation video that should bring up to stylish speed.

Dearth of Daring Designers: Spring 2009 Collections Too ‘Safe’

NEW YORK — Safe but a general lack of zing.

That was buyers’ overall view of New York Fashion Week, which wrapped up Friday. While the commercial looks that packed the runways should have set retailers’ hearts aflutter, many of them were disappointed. Difficult times like these, they say, call not for the tried-and-true, but for wow-some looks that will lure nervous consumers to the stores, like bunnies out of the bushes.

“The shows didn’t really live up to my expectations,” said Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York. “There were some great ones, but for the most part, I think it was hard for designers to put their finger on exactly what we need and what inspires us during this period of change.

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director of Holt Renfrew, agreed. “We’re all examining and stepping back,” she said. “When there’s economic instability, people question their purchasing.

“This is a time when we’re really looking at the new guard of designers,” said Atkin, noting some iconic American design houses are floundering without their namesake designers at the helm. “There’s a lot of confusion at Bill Blass and the problem with Halston is, what does it mean anymore? It’s got to go beyond the name on the label. It’s just got to be fantastic clothes. The clothes have to have substance and the identity of what the brand is has to jump out at you.”

That’s what Atkin is looking for in all collections. “If we don’t get that, everything we purchase fades into a blandism on our floors.”

Jim Wetzel and Lance Lawson, owners of two Jake boutiques in Chicago and one in suburban Winnetka, Ill., said, “We did feel collections looked a bit the same across the board and felt some designs seemed more phoned-in than inspired.”

Of course, there were exceptions. Marc Jacobs and Rodarte were singled out by several retailers for their creativity. “Maria Cornejo, Alexander Wang, these are the new guard,” said Atkin. “A new generation is coming up quickly.”

“Overall, I think it will take some intense picking and choosing from each collection, but there is enough uniqueness and individuality out there in the clothing,” said Beth Buccini, co-founder of Kirna Zabête. “All the elaborate shoes and jewels are the really pretty icing.”

There were those, particularly at the larger stores, who left the week feeling upbeat, however. Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s vice president and fashion director, said she was pleased with the “fashionable and realistic” clothes she saw. “This is the best way to stimulate our buyers and our customers,” she said. “We are extremely confident about the season to come. Our business is strong because we know what we are doing and we know who we are. Give them fabulous color, give them the new item, present it in an aspirational way. If the product is right, consumers don’t even look at the price point, and fashion pieces always go first.” 

The one trend most retailers agreed could go away: Harem pants.

Here’s what else they had to say:

Stephanie Solomon, vice president for fashion direction of Bloomingdale’s 

Favorite collections: Marc Jacobs moved us toward the future while referencing our past. It will take something special to get women to open their wallets. Everything in Marc’s collection was special. That’s exactly what we’re looking for, that special thing that will help us escape this economy. Ralph Lauren can still make a fashion director excited. Zac Posen was always a fledgling designer, but this collection brought him into the arena of world-class designers. I take him very seriously. Lela Rose did a great job. Diane von Furstenberg, Milly, Rebecca Taylor, Nanette Lepore and Anna Sui were standouts. Francis by Christian Francis Roth was so fresh, so right on and so happy in a climate where everybody’s taking everything so seriously, and Leifsdottir is doing very well. The novelty details and attention to detail are so important to the American customer. I’m not going to be cautious in my spending with the designers I saw this week. 

The trends that are keepers: Harem pants, but not extreme harem pants; boyfriend jackets; jumpsuits; chiffon blouses, and dresses. 

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of designer fashion at Nordstrom

Best fashion moment was: Being at Marc Jacobs’ show Monday night felt like I was witnessing something that doesn’t happen very often — a triumphant night for fashion.

Favorite collections: Kate and Laura Mulleavy had their strongest show yet. Taking all of their unique ideas that have become expected at Rodarte and adding on even more layers, they created something that was tough chic, but with an angelic side. Michael Kors’ collection was full of fabulous clothes. The colorblocking, polkadots and color palette were happy and optimistic. Oscar de la Renta’s polished and refined glamour [showed] he is a true master who always somehow manages to get better and better. Narciso Rodriguez always turns out a solid collection and he seemed to have taken yet another giant leap forward.

Michael Fink, vice president of women’s fashion direction at Saks Fifth Avenue

Overall impressions: I was truly excited by so many moments. I loved the collections that oozed a relaxed, urban sophistication and monochromatic layers of weightless fabrics that draped around the body

Favorite collections: Richard Chai, Derek Lam and Brian Reyes were spot-on with their supercool layering ideas. Oscar de la Renta’s minimal looks were some of my favorites of the week, as well as a new direction for his woman whose closets are filled with florals, ruffles and ethnic prints. Phillip Lim and Carolina Herrera wooed us with ruffles. I liked Michael Kors’ take on dots and stripes and we will sell those scuba dresses all day long. Marc Jacobs’ celebration of all things American was truly over-the-top good fun. 

New talent I discovered: Christian Siriano gave a well-balanced and beautiful first collection.

Trends that are keepers: The vest, in all lengths from cropped to below the hip, is the new jacket for summer. Everyone will need a sequined “something” for day and evening. And if you haven’t done it before, this will be the time to test drive a jumpsuit.

Anne Watson, vice president and fashion director of Henri Bendel

Favorite collections: From the new guard, Elise Overland, Jason Wu, and Juan Carlos Obando.

Trends that are keepers: Irreverent pairings of prints and fabrics and the manipulation of fabrics through techniques such as pleating, draping, folding and twisting. Leather for spring is going to be very important for our customer and is a trend that we will go after. Hanii Y had great leather. Also, jumpsuits from Elise Overland and Thakoon. The new version of the cocktail dress, a textured sheath dress from Alexander Wang and Brian Reyes. I liked the wide-leg denim by Diane von Furstenberg and Milly.

To accessorize or not accessorize: There is no question that accessories continue to be an integral part of the wardrobe. Marc Jacobs’ use of accessories will surely have a halo effect on the rest of the accessories market, from wide belts, to the cummerbund effect with sashes, to the continued importance of statement-making jewelry.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: New arrival Jason Wu looks promising, and Alexander Wang delivered a strong, edgy collection. Accolades to Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein for his highly innovative folding collection. Vera Wang struck just the right balance between her artistic side and clean easy pieces, not to mention her exceptional accessories. Also, Narciso Rodriguez’s mix of softness with graphics as well as his body-baring looks and Rodarte for their poetic, enchanting fantasies. Ralph Lauren’s show was exceptionally beautiful.

Trends that are keepers: The tough girl, with so much asymmetry in bodies and hemlines, petal layering, slouchy pantaloon pants, and aggressive statement shoes; athletic body dressing with scuba, corsets, bandeaus, midriff cutaways, and crisscrossing graphics, especially in black and white, felt fresh. It was nice to see the evolution of ruffles.

To accessorize or not accessorize: Designers are wisely maximizing accessories as a category and an opportunity, stimulated by the success of statement jewelry for fall.

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of Macy’s

Favorite collections: Ralph Lauren’s “Safari of a Thousand Nights,” Donna Karan’s style and sensuality and the purity of the Isaac Mizrahi collection with key looks such as the new trench, the corset and asymmetry. Also, the sportswear glam of Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein, Tuleh and Derek Lam.

New talent I discovered: I loved Christian Francis Roth. We are so happy he’s back on the scene. The young generation is developing its own style.

Trends that are keepers: Color creates an emotion to buy. The continuation of the print is remarkable. We like this whole new fusion combining feminine and sport, the new volume and the new shine with iridescence and sequins. Fabulous new items included the jumpsuit, motorcycle jacket, vest and feminine blouse. We like the importance of accessories, with big handbags and shoes. There are a ton of options.

Barbara Atkin, vice president and fashion director of Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Michael Kors because he understands who his woman is. This season, he walked away from the uptight lady and gave us American sportswear in classic Bal Harbour colors and it worked. He also had wonderful scuba sexy dresses, which I think will bring in a new customer. Rodarte was fearless in their expression and whether you can wear it or not, I think it was art. They established themselves as American designers with a world-class point of view. Also, Jeremy Laing, a Canadian, did beautiful, billowing, simple clothing and worked with interesting under slips and openwork. Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera gave us quality and security and consistency. At that price point, you want that. Marc Jacobs summed up where we are today. He showed so strongly what I call the DIY look. You pick your clothes to suit your personality. When Marc mixes up the plaids with the damasks, evening with day and grunge with Asia, he’s saying take these items and create your own style.

Trends that are keepers: Romantic bohemia, monochromatic designs with clean lines that give more longevity to clothes, transferring details from the athletic world to couture shapes, papery leather, a variety of pant silhouettes and fabrics with glazing and sheen and shine.

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York

Favorite collections: Hands down, Rodarte. Alexander Wang’s show was filled with great energy and a lot of saleable items and Narciso Rodriguez displayed an elegant evolution with some edge.

New talent I discovered: Juan Carlos Obando, who had a great first show, and Erin Wasson + RVCA was a cute collaboration.

Trends that are keepers: I think the bondage details will make women feel sexy. Most important, there were lots of choices, from a rocker-type aesthetic to feminine and light.

To accessorize or not accessorize: Everybody’s trying to do a lot wherever they can get it. If you don’t have shoes, someday you’re going to have shoes. If you don’t have bags, someday you’re going to have bags. Proenza Schouler had a lot of accessories, which they’ve never had before. Alexander Wang had a much more developed handbag collection and Marc Jacobs had a lot [of everything]. 

Beth Buccini, co-owner, Kirna Zabête

Favorite collections: Alexander Wang — not quite a cult yet, but certainly a tribe, and we can prove it with our incredible sell-throughs. Narciso Rodriguez was the highlight of the week with confident, sleek and modern warrior dresses. We loved Thakoon’s naughty prints, toughness, and overall risk-taking and Elise Overland’s amazing leathers and sexy short dresses are a dream look for a sophisticated urban night owl. Also, Tuleh and Proenza Schouler.

Trends that are keepers: Jumpsuits, the Eighties, nude, a new toughness, splashes of pool colors — pale blues, mint greens and oranges — and great prints.

David Rubenstein, Jeffrey New York

Favorite collections: Narciso Rodriguez and Rodarte

New talent I discovered: Sophie Théallet, and I thought Juan Carlos Obando and Cushnie et Ochs also looked very strong.

Trends that are keepers: I was very happy to see all the vivid color on the runway. The overall lightness of many collections was really refreshing.

 

Courtesy: WWD

Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2009 Collection

We arrived at the New York State Armory at 8:55 pm and it was a mad house inside. Martha Stewart chasing Helena Christensen to snap a pic, Suzy Menkes taking a paparazzi picture of Jennifer Lopez. Victoria Beckham was still posing for photographs while Nicole Richie was chatting with Rachel Zoe! The show started on time at 9 pm.

The set made of hall of mirrors was quite unusual and was according to Marc Jacobs inspired by the Haute Couture Fall Winter 2008 Chanel show.

Marc Jacobs said backstage: “yes of course I have my reference but who cares, you enjoyed the show that the only thing I care about” when we were all asking for his inspirations. Was it Mary Popins? Broadway insprired? Yves Saint Laurent’s Ballets Russes collection redux? Jacobs was not clear.

We were amazed by the collection as it was a real show, I mean by “show”: a spectacle.

Prairie skirt, Cowboy print shirt twisted with a leather bow skirt, lurex and taffetas… a classic dark grey suit was first on the list of the main buyers such as Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo or net-a-porter’s Nathalie Massenet. Crushed-straw hat, a chunky necklace, and a quilted chain-link bag that will drive us crazy next summer.

Alexander Wang’s After Party Sweatier Than His Runway Show

 

 

Alexander Wang’s sweat-inspired runway show Saturday evening was clearly more than just a fashion statement: later that night in a basement space in the far reaches of Chinatown, Erin Wasson and Alice Dellal hosted a perspiration-drenched dance party for the designer that drew a crowd of his beloved ODMs (that’s off-duty models) like Behati Prinsloo, Julia Stegner and Noot Sear. 

Wang began the night in a black Hooters T-shirt (“We tried to go there after the show, but they wouldn’t give us our reservation so we went to McDonald’s instead,” he said), but soon stripped down to one of his signature gray tanks and joined the hordes dancing up a storm around a mini, blue-lit runway, waiting for the much ballyhooed surprise performer. 

 

 

She was worth every bead of sweat: at 11:45 p.m., Foxy Brown took the stage in the designer’s hot pink minidress, telling the roaring crowd, “They put me in jail for a year and my cell was full of Alexander Wang,” before rapping hits like “Candy,” “What’s Your Heaven” and “Hot Spot.” 

Turns out Brown was celebrating more than her self-described “good friend” Wang’s collection: it was also her birthday. 

 

“When he asked me to perform and told me it was going to be Sept. 6, I said, ‘You know what? I’m going to give you that!’” she laughed after her half-hour set. Don’t expect to see her all over the front rows in the coming days. “I don’t whore myself out for fashion.” And though it was her first performance since her release from jail earlier this year, Brown didn’t suffer from any stage fright. 

“I’m a beast on the microphone,” she declared, as a VH1 television crew filmed her for an upcoming reality show. “I was more nervous about busting my ass in these 6-inch Yves Saint Laurent heels.”

Courtesy: WWD

Hervé Léger By Max Azria Spring Summer 2009 Collection

September 7th 2008 – Bryant Park – Keeping true to its Parisian roots, Max Azria has carried the Parisian Hervé Léger fashion house over the pond and into Bryant Park with much success. With corset shaping bandage dresses wrapping silhouettes even tighter, Hervé Léger brings a sexy, almost erotic look, to NY Fashion Week.

After chatting up a storm with some of the ladies at the Bryant Park lounge, we grabbed our Balenciaga bags and headed past security check and into the runway show area. There in the Promenade, or the more intimate and 2nd most largest venue of the Bryant Park tent, the crowd looked young, hip, and famished for a different take on Spring 2009′s fashion. Plopping into our seating, we found a small Hérve Legér gift box filled with parfumerie. No sooner did I pick up my style sheet than the show commenced.

The first looks were filled with signature Hervé Léger cocktail dresses, short one piece robes with above the knee cuts. As the models snaked down the catwalk, you could catch a few pushing down the dress as it rode up their hips: a side effect of the bandage wraps’ coiled nature. Bright colours hugged the models, with eye-catching pieces shimmering in gold.

After several pieces had passed our way and the 4 evening wear pieces carouseled the catwalk, we thought the show was over. Max Azria kept the best for last: a blast of white light relit the catwalk and a quick barrage of sunglasses toting models came quickly back out wearing minimal Hervé Léger swimwear in all shapes and symmetries. Our favourite was the V-shaped black swim piece with matching arm bandages, creating a perfect avant-garde look pour la cruise.

Soon thereafter the show ended, with Max Azria taking the customary bow along with the creative designer for H.L. Before heading back stage, we caught a glimpse of Lou Doillon who was absolutely infatuated with Hervé’s revival in NY. When asked “What are you wearing today, mademoiselle?”, Lou replied in an almost peppermint sweet tone “Hervé Léger, bien sûr, of course.”

See our pictures below

Stars and Style: 5th Annual Fashion Rocks

The fifth annual Fashion Rocks on Friday drew one of its most stellar crowds in years. In Fashion’s corner: designers Vera Wang, Max Azria, Tommy Hilfiger and Valentino, as well as stylish stars Charlize Theron and Hilary Swank. Representing Rocks: Mariah Carey, Mary J Blige, Beyoncé, Miley Cyrus, Leona Lewis and dozens more. But even among all the star power, the one performer whom everyone at Radio City Music Hall was dying to see was Justin Timberlake. Apparently, Timberlake is the sort of man who reduces women to monosyllabic speech.

“He’s hot,” gushed Elizabeth Banks.

“Justin’s the bomb,” said Blige. “And very, very cute.”

Duffy, however, was interested in Rihanna; their first run-in was the perfect storm of fashion and rocking. “We met while shopping at Barneys,” Duffy said.

Once inside, Timberlake didn’t disappoint, nor did the rest of the all-star lineup. Beyoncé crooned Etta James’ “At Last,” walking into the front row to bring James to her feet for everyone to see. Lynyrd Skynyrd and Kid Rock collaborated on “Sweet Home Alabama,” and Debbie Harry and Fergie sang “Call Me.”

 

 

Denis Leary made for an affable host, and found fashion an easy target. “Naomi Campbell has a fragrance called Mystery,” he said. “The only mystery about her is where she will hit you with a cell phone.”

Afterward, the “Gossip Girl” crew and the marquee musicians walked across the street to the Rainbow Room, where Timberlake and Kid Rock danced to Michael Jackson on the banquettes until midnight.

The following night, Alexander Wang corralled the fashion crew to a basement space in Chinatown, where Erin Wasson and Alice Dellal hosted a party for the designer that drew ODMs (that’s off-duty models) like Behati Prinsloo, Julia Stegner and Noot Sear. Wang began the night in a black Hooters T-shirt (“We tried to go there after the show, but they wouldn’t give us our reservation, so we went to McDonald’s instead,” he said), but soon stripped down to one of his signature gray tanks and joined the hordes dancing and sweating up a storm, waiting for Foxy Brown’s much anticipated set. Finally, at 11:45 p.m., she took the stage in the designer’s hot pink minidress, telling the roaring crowd, “They put me in jail, and my cell was full of Alexander Wang.”

Turns out Brown was celebrating more than Wang’s collection; it was also her birthday. “When he asked me to perform and told me it was going to be Sept. 6, I said, ‘You know what? I’m going to give you that!’” she laughed after her half-hour set. But that’s all she’s giving. Brown won’t be out for any other designer next week. “I don’t whore myself out for fashion,” said the rapper, who’s attended shows for Zac Posen, Chris Aire and Sweetface in the past.

And though this was her first performance since her release from jail earlier this year, Brown didn’t suffer from any stage fright. “I’m a beast on the microphone,” she declared, as a VH1 television crew filmed her for her upcoming reality show. “I was more nervous about busting my ass in these 6-inch Yves Saint Laurent heels!”

Courtesy: WWD

Alexander Wang Spring Summer 2009 Collection

September 6th 2008 – “She is the same girl, she’s sexy, she’s carrying her big bag, and it’s raining!” the funny part is that Tropical storm Hanna drenched New York City when the Alexander Wang show was happening.  We’ve been able to make it and we didn’t regret it. The collection was colorful which is new for Alexander Wang, he always used very dark colors or only black in his past collections. Raquel Zimmermann opened the show with a white bathing suit and a blue aged leather perfecto. We got to see the T shirt that are going to be available this spring, the good thing about this line of T shirts is that according to Alex Wang the price tag will start from $40. It’s also the introduction of the wang’s shoe line and handbags line that will “as we already know” be available at Barneys.

The front row was filled up with Sarah from the Paris Concept Store Colette,  Julia Reiston Roitfeld,  Alice Dellal (alex’s muse), Erin Wasson and her mother, Missy Ryder.

Shop the collection at :

LUISIAVIAROMA.COM

NET-A-PORTER.COM

shopbop.com

barneys.com

brownfashion.com

See our pictures below

Marc Jacobs’s last walk down the runway?

Trouble in the house of Louis Vuitton? It seems it may be so. Like a hot,sensual relationship where everything seems right at first & where lust can be found in every look, the marriage between Arnault’s empire and his sky-rocketing designer may be coming to a dénouement. Heresy you say? Well, let’s take a quick stroll through some facts, shall we, before one ties me to a stake and roasts me more than Whitney Houston in a candid interview.

First of all, there are some very, undeniable facts:

1. Marc Jacobs is a genius that has brought wealth and notoriety for over 10+ years to a then-burgeoning Louis Vuitton. His Bleeker Street to rue St. Faubourg-Honoré touch launched a once-limited, staunchy malleterie business into the eyes of fashion critics as a high-end Prêt-à-Porter power-fashion-house which has never looked back since.
2. From handbags, to clothing, to marroquineries (leather-goods for my not-so-French-savvy readers), Louis Vuitton has cornered every piece of the market, leaving nearly no Feng-shui-ed stone unturned.
3. Collaborations, collaborations, collaborations. Marc Jacobs + Louis Vuitton + Artist X = success. As if his own creative genius were not enough to compliment the fashion houses’ exceptionally long tradition in fine luxury goods, MJ has sought from time to time the artiste from without. The result has always equated into instant success and the near symphonic ringing of cash registers across all of LV’s many global-reaching boutiques. From Stephen Sprouse, to Takashi Murakami, to Richard Prince, Marc Jacobs has chosen his partners in crime and has walked away with the bank vault.

So after all the exhuberance from such wonderful success, why in God’s green earth would one ever conceive the title of this article? Well, as any fashion-snob in the industry will tell you, one leaves the cocktail party on a high note. And the height of fashion for Louis Vuitton is upon us.

But of course, that statement alone is not enough to say that this is the end for MJ. No, on the contrary, there’s much more that points to the final chapter of the Louis Vuitton-Marc Jacobs success story.

1. Even Marc Jacobs knows deep inside of himself that his own creative talents are being stifled by the constant requirements to meet deadlines that Bernard Arnault and the other folks above him expect him to accomplish. This just isn’t the best environment for creative liberty, rather, it’s a good place to at least refine one’s artistic talent.
2. MJ is old and tired for Vuitton’s contstantly growing image. This past year’s F/W 2008 Collection looked much like something a Parson’s School freshman fashion designer could’ve put together. (Now that I think about it, MJ could fill in a spot in Lifetime’s upcoming “Project Runway: Season 6 Celebrity Designer Edition”)
3. Marc Jacobs is starting a new life with a new man. After all the dramaz from his fat-years, to losing all that weight, and then falling prey to the go-go boy which we will no longer name except to say his name kinda sounds like “Jay” and last name sounds like “Stun”, MJ needs a break to make a life with his new Brazilian boy-toy lover Lorenzo. (Even a Queen like MJ needs a fairy tale moment to himself)
4. MJ has already begun to show signs of friction chez Louis Vuitton (and for that matter, Bernard Arnault and his Batman-cum-Robin sidekick Yves Carcelle), after fashion reporters questioned him on Louis Vuitton’s Tokyo pop-up shop collaborative project with Comme Des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo :

“I’ve kind of warned everybody up there that I think they’ve gotten a little too into this idea which, I mean, is great,” Jacobs said. “I’m glad that everybody gets behind it, but what they don’t realize is that I do it at a pace that maintains the brand’s integrity and seems really right, and I think that sometimes everybody loves a good idea so much that they kind of go too far and it kind of kills it.” - NYMAG

Rei Kawakubo - Comme Des Garçons for Louis Vuitton

Beyond the fact that MJ doesn’t appreciate Neuilly-resident, HEC-educated Louis Vuitton marketers telling him what should “sell”, more importantly, he didn’t like the fact that it was done without any of his creative fingerprints on the drawing board. To MJ, if he’s not involved at every step in building Louis Vuitton’s image as a respectable maison de mode then he’s simply wasting his time and talent. And that, my readers, is more valuable to MJ than all the perks Arnault could ever throw at him.

Oh, and look for Brazilian Amazonian and Carmen Miranda inspired prints this upcoming Paris Fashion Week as a sign of MJ’s soon-to-be announced departure.