Proenza Schouler Fall Winter 2010 Hair & Makeup

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Wednesday February 17th, 2010 – Milk Studio

For Fall 2010 Proenza Schouler show continued the surfer-girl theme started last season, but this time she was a bit darker and moodier. As Frederic Fekkai‘s hairstylist Didier Malige put it, “Now she’s spending less time in the water and more time surfing the streets”. To create the “urban surfer” hair, Malige prepped the hair with Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel, then spritzed on Fekkai Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray. He used Fekkai Coiff Magnifique Ultra-Light Finishing Crème to define the ends. The result: a wavy texture that was slightly dry and static-y. Off the runway, Malige recommends applying the products to damp hair, running your fingers through it, then rough-drying while twisting small sections with your fingers to encourage waves that look loose.

“The makeup is based on fashion photos of model Kristen McMenamy from the early ’90s, when they’d show her with pale skin and super-dark lips. To bring the look up to date, we’re focusing on making the skin tone look even and filling in the brows—just making sure the face looks done,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal. “If the rest of the face was bare, this would come across as more of a raw look. But we want it to be healthy and pulled-together with this rich, dark lip.”

On the skin, Kendal applied M.A.C. Studio Fix Foundation and M.A.C Blot Powder for a polished (but not heavy matte) look.

The lips were the focal point: On the brunette models, Kendal applied M.A.C. Pro Lipstick in Charred Red, a matte deep crimson lipstick that she made even darker by topping it with black powder). On the blonde models, Kendal went with M.A.C. Pro Lipstick in Smoked Purple, a matte deep eggplant shade. The reason for the two different lipsticks? Simply because “the red looks a bit cheap on the blondes,” she told us backstage.

For the eyes, Kendal blended M.A.C. Cream Colour Base in Dark Brown under the bottom lashes, in the crease of the lid, and along the top lash line. She then patted a sheer super-shiny gloss on the lids for sheet, skipping liner and mascara.

GET THE LOOK – MAKEUP: All products by Mac Cosmetics. Diane Kendal brushed Dark Brown Cream Colour Base under and around the eyes, as well as in the crease and on top of the lash line. On skin, she used Studio Fix where needed, and Blot Powder to set and keep skin matte. She also applied NC 50 Studio Finish Concealer on cheek bones to contour. Blonde models received Smoked Purple Lipstick on lips, while brunettes got Charred Red mixed with Carbon Eye Shadow. Kendal made lip color deeper in the center and faded the edges.

GET THE LOOK – HAIR: All products by Frédéric Fekkai. Malige used Coiff Océanique Tousled Wave Spray for texture and Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel to add height.

See our pictures below: