Wednesday March 3, 2010 – 5 rue du Mail
For her Fall Winter 2010 Collecton, Martine Sitbon decided to infuse a bit of structure into the Rue du Mail DNA, marrying beautifully proportioned silhouettes to an otherwise effortlessly soft construction. Known for her dresses, the designer added some interesting suits, that delved into some complex tailoring. We see this with a trench coat reinterpreted as a redingote; short in the front & paired with a series of mini-capes, folded & draped over the shoulders. A tight leather camel-colored jacket also carried this same motif, but portended a youthful twist that’s sure to please consumers.
Editors find great joy in discovering the details in a collection that might be difficult to perceive on first glance. So you could only imagine the grins and smiles painted across journalists as certain key pieces strolled the catwalk, bending our minds to try to discover their intricacies. Separates were actually one-pieces while voluminous looks were given sculptural shapes. What we thought was a simple combination of a jacket with a ruffled add-on collar on model Heidi Mount turned out to be one constructed piece. A puffy grey suit was cinched at the waist and paired with a draped skirt, while dresses got ruffles on the collar or around the waist. The smoking jacket was tied up with a leather belt.
But where Sitbon’s handiwork truly shined was in the crafting of truly desirable frocks, like the one spotted on Karmen Pedaru. The body-conscious two-tonal grey-black dress looked like it was the basis upon which the whole collection was created. With its black-strand shoulder jacket-esque top, slit just enough to reveal top-chest cleavage, and held over a ruched grey-pencil dress, it could easily have editors defining the collection in endearing superlatives.
Shop Rue du Mail by Martine Sitbon via Net-a-Porter.com
Visit ruedumail.com for store locations & stockist
See our pictures below:
