Monday May 9, 2011 – Eden Roc – Cap d’Antibes
As a Première to the Cannes Film Festival, Karl Lagerfeld brings his spotlight to Eden-Roc. With a breathtaking view of the sky meeting the Mediterranean Sea, the legendary Eden-Roc has welcomed generations of stars who have come to seek haven from the ever-buzzing paparazzi. Next to the Cap d’Antibes, this mythical hotel has become the set of CHANEL’s 2011-12 Cruise show. With his collection and short film, entitled “The Tale of a Fairy”, Karl Lagerfeld brings to life his chic vision of the Riviera. After Saint-Tropez in May 2010, the House of CHANEL has come back to the Côte d’Azur to explore what Karl Lagerfeld calls “the other side of paradise”, stretching from Cannes to Monaco.
The style? “A certain discipline in the clothes with a glamour inherited from the 1950s, a glamour that is more natural, more interior, miles away from the current red carpet trends,” comments Karl Lagerfeld. It was an intimate show attended by HRH the Princess of Hanover, CHANEL ambasadresses Anna Mouglalis, Blake Lively and Vanessa Paradis, actresses Clémence Poésy, Marine Vacth and Rachel Bilson, as well as Laura Bailey, Alexa Chung, Poppy Delevingne and Caroline Sieber.
In one long take, the models stroll under the shade of the pine trees lining the runway and stretching down to the sea. Between masculine and feminine, day and night, High Jewellery and trompe l’oeil embroideries, the role play between these elements is second nature that underlines the elegance of movement.
Hollywood allure dramatises tweed suits, with slim silhouettes infinitely stretched by narrow jackets with lotus-like collars and long skirts that cut short the step.
Jackets, with a very masculine-feminine spirit, separate body from sleeves with shoulder pads sometimes embroidered with a crystal trim that shrink or stretch into cardigan or coat forms.
Men’s shirts in cotton are grafted under chiffon blouses and are nonchalantly worn with fluid trousers. Large shorts are worn with sweaters and twin sets with a floral motif.
For dips in the sea, swimsuits inspired by the 1930s are made androgynous thanks to tuxedo and men’s cardigan trompe l’oeil effects. Others are illuminated by jewelled belts under two- tone ponchos inspired by modern art. As a reference to this Riviera chic spirit, jackets even feature terry-towelling and fine mesh fabrics.
Cocktail looks highlight the freshness of youth. Flowers, embroidered by Lesage, bloom on strapless ensembles, stitched onto a sheath of tulle. Constructivist triangle motifs in multicoloured leather beautifully decorate trapeze dresses with XXL pockets.
Slips, button-down shirts, fluid like silk made into second skins… the mermaid like silhouettes play hide and seek with the back. The CHANEL Fine Jewellery icons, pearls and diamonds, are mirrored also by costume jewellery on the braided gowns, buttons and belts, even as a motif, on the silk sheath embroidered with comets. A reference to Gabrielle Chanel who relished mixing real and costume jewellery.
The tweed, organza, satin, crêpe and silk chiffon, but also on the smooth side, knit, panne velvet and sponge velvet harmonize in a graphic palette, all in shade and light for a photographic effect. White, sometimes iridescent and othertimes off-white, is most often blended with black in a chequered pattern and other two-tone plays. Navy blue, sometimes spiced with red hints at the glamorous cruise wit and some touches of fresh pastel: yellow, mimosa and parma violet.
Between dance and leisure, “tango-tongs” and “tango-boots” bring a freedom of movement and invent a new genre: hybrids between flip-flops, strappy heels and soft amazonian boots. Discrete bags, for the most part, leave hands free, with a tom-boy two-tone spirit for the “Boy” bag, or a mini quilted vality case that recalls an icebox. The silhouette is finished off with a humourous note thanks to little two-tone boaters.
See all the looks below:
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