Wednesday February 29, 2012 – Gymnase Japy
Knowing when “less is more” can be tricky for some of us, especially on those days when we want to wear all of our best clothes at the same time. This time around, Nicola Formichetti has decidedly stripped down the runway of any theatrical effects, leaving the clothes to speak for themselves. Set to the music of Ryuichi Sakamoto, the strong ‘maximal minalimist’ designs were as bold as the days when Jerry Hall used to entertain on the catwalk. And although hips and body bending are a Mugler signature, backstage, Nicola instructed girls to show “no hips” and to “stand up straight”; his modern take on the Mugler woman.
But Formichetti had something additional in mind, as was clear the second guests began to take their seats. Huddled around the runway, in an arena-like formation, guests were brought closer than ever to see the show. So close in fact, that those in the front row were practically on the runway itself.
The first pair of looks strutted out slowly in white hooded wool coats with elongated fox and mink fur kimono sleeves. Drawing inspiration from Thierry’s’97 “insect” collection, Formichetti and Peigné riffed on the concept, not in a literal way, rather, playing up the idea of the tribe and army. One by one, a phalanx of super heroines in highly architectural pieces took to the runway, weaving about almost at random. Praying mantis silhouettes, leaf-shaped peplums, cocoon sculpted coats with convex molded backs, and laser cut, web fringe skirts morphed into bold colored pieces midway through the show. A tomato-red blouse and trouser number followed by a kumquat orange body hugging dress with front facing slit were equal parts powerful and seductive. A trio of half-veiled, black-sheer ninja numbers closed the show; the perfect ‘yang’ to the opening ‘yin’.
Fans looked intently via Ustream as the designing pair took their customary bows. Nary 24 hours earlier, they were treated to working side by side with Nicola through the power of live streaming, as he and company toiled late into the evening at their atelier, finalizing the collection. And after seeing the fruits of their labor take to the catwalk, many fans will be eager to own a piece of a collection that they truly feel being a part of.
See the full length looks below:
Video and photos courtesy of Stylerumor.com
Hair by Sam McKnight
Makeup Val Garland
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