Saturday June 30, 2012 – Tennis Club de Paris
Kris Van Assche certainly has a flair for the perfectly pragmatic. After last seasons showing of military greens and dove print flighty frocks, he’s gotten a case of the blues -deep, marine blues to be exact – and has crafted a navy inspired collection that has left many wanting to enlist his wares into their next Spring wardrobe. The Dior Homme house has never been one to dabble into unwearable clothing but it isn’t known for making safe clothes either. Kris talents at making witty but wearable pieces at his own eponymous brand translated masterfully at his Dior presentation, with a keen skill at taking simple pieces, such as the classic blazer, and deconstructing it piece by piece until it’s become four different unique looks.
Right from the first model, a simple two-button, soft shouldered blazer with double pleated tapered trousers and wing-tip navy shoes with crimson red laces appears as the “everyday-everymans” suit; perfectly tailored for every occasion from the casual work function to the evening summer garden party. A double breasted version of the same blazer was followed by a boat-shaped, neckline ‘poncho-blazer’. It was upon seeing the same double-breasted blazer from two looks prior, this time sans-sleeves and with created buttons, that you got the idea that Kris theme du-jour would simply be to deconstruct the classics and construct the unexpected.
This theme carried onto another suit look, this time in a Prince-de-Galles print that was transformed from a blazer into a drawstring parka-jacket and finally into a two-button trench. Black leather bombers, flight jackets, parkas and bags got the red-trim treatment. A double-chest pocket bomber evolved into a five-button collar-less military coat and then into a sleeveless sweater with a 4-button row along each shoulder. A sleeveless mariners overcoat helps to show off the summer biceps which was later transformed into a shortened trench with an ivory trimmed collar.
The show title of “Light” shone through toward the latter half of the show as KVA wedded technical mesh to classic looks, like the trench and blazer, until it eventually dissolved into a fully deconstructed suit, appearing as pure sheer with dulled grey seams creating a graphic effect. This last touch was carried through back into a progression of trenches, blazer, and baseball jackets, sans the sheer, giving the beholder the illusion of X-ray vision. A 3D rope print striped set of sweaters in blue, red, and ivory had a trompe l’œuil quality.
KVA showed that with wit, fine craftsmanship, and a mindset focused on simple sublimity, a collection of classic pieces can be re-calibrated into 46 looks that are enough to fill any mans wardrobe for any occasion.
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