Saturday January 19, 2013 – Garde Republicaine
Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche has always delivered collections that have adhered to the house’s tradition of fine tailoring, technically well-cut clothing, and elongated silhouettes but he’s also been adept at injecting a sporty spirit that speaks to the modern man. This season was no different with suit, pant, tie, and jacket combos that look fit for a businessman; what is less revealing are the proportions. Structured, wider shoulders on jackets as well as looser pant legs allow for the inner athlete to flex his muscles more easily.
That sporty spirit translated into key design choices, with buttons being swapped for zippers on shirts and smoking jackets, while seatbelt buckles on belts and trenches seemed fit for sports extremists. It wouldn’t be a KVA collection without a bit of sublime ‘je ne sais quoi’. A powerfully bold and hollowed out triangle embedded within a larger circle had an occult-ish, vexing symbolism that left us wondering what it could mean. Free Masons? Gattaca? Other than Kris, few may ever know; still, that brilliant shape in crimson red or snow white simply popped in all the right ways when paired against the backdrop of black and grey Mao jackets or monochromatic, svelte knit sweaters.
Waistlines were cinched with flight seatbelts and asymmetrical zippers creeped up to the neckline on a few numbers. Foam-filled wool flight jackets and bombers move fluidly while a military trench was transformed into insets of a purple pin-stipe suit, elevating it into something grander than the sum of its parts. Blue hooded overcoats and parkas get the glossy treatment as a trench while the same technique was applied to minimalist, elongated jackets. Overall, the collection pushed the envelope in all the right places, evolving the Dior ‘uniform’ of black and white suit combos into unrestricted, powerful clothing that has the allure of fitting perfectly like a glove.
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See all the photos below:
Photos courtesy of stylerumor.com
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