Wednesday February 27, 2013 – Halle Freyssinet
If you follow Nicola Formichetti on any number of social networks, you quickly realize his home is where his work and leisure call him. Whether he’s styling a shoot in Tokyo for Vogue Japan, working out of V Magazine’s offices in New York, or just unwinding under a palm tree in Tulum, Mexico, Nicola has probably earned his platinum flyer stripes by now, which may explain the world-traveler inspiration for this latest collection.
Understandably, after spending time in quite a few airports and planes, Nicola drew inspiration from therein, incorporating into the collection elements of airy openness, clean architectural lines, and a potpourri of elements from all walks of life and time. Nicola and Sebastien Peigné crafted clothes that took quantum leaps and bounds across the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s but that held an endearing view of what the past envisioned of the future.
The first series of cocooned, shoulder tapered looks showed Peigné’s natural talent at taking a basic element like wind and reconceptualizing it as a soft, caressing garment. Even the choice of tones and materials, from coral, sea foam and gentle yellows to cashmere and pilled wool, appeared to evoke a sense of calmness and restraint. Petal-leaf top dresses and cropped blouse-skirt combos flashed just a bit of skin before transitioning into sculptural white sweater and pant combos that would look at home in Oscar Niemeyer’s Niteroi Art Museum.
Five pocket petrol patent pants (try saying that five times fast) and a matching asymmetrical jacket added a bit of Blade Runner into the narrative. Mixing materials revealed a wondrous shearling overcoat with a satin ‘under-dress’ as well as a tropical neoprene and satin shift dress number. Flared wrap jackets, shiny slick trousers, pencil skirts, optic white tops, mohair-like turtlenecks, and leather headscarves appeared like a monochromatic summary of the best elements of the collection.
Even with all the retro nods, one cannot deny that the Mugler woman seems to always have one foot in the now and the other in the future.
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See all the photos:
Photos and video courtesy of stylerumor.com
Creative Director: Nicola Formichetti
Womenswear Designer: Sebastien Peigne
Hair: Sam McKnight
Makeup: Charlotte Tilbury
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