Thursday January 9th, 2014 – Academy Mansion – New York
Louis Vuitton’s 2014 Prefall Collection fuses timeless classics with a utilitarian vibe to create a wardrobe of modern staples in beautiful materials, crafted with ultimate savoir-faire.
It is a collection from which the image of a strong woman emerges, both in the color palette – dominated by deep, rich tones, from black through grey and midnight blue to dark green and burgundy, illuminated by flashes of red and fuchsia – and in the boldness with which familiar pieces are combined in new and unexpected ways.
In particular, the collection offers a fresh vision of suiting, with different volumes, colors or materials paired to create a nonchalant look. A military-style jacket in dark green wool is belted over a burgundy skirt whose modest just-above-the-knee length is subverted by a zipper right up the front. A varsity jacket in tweed and leather is teamed with a matching mini-skirt. A short-sleeved sweater, embroidered in sequins with giant LV graffiti, is worn casually over a lavishly beaded skirt.
If suiting is transformed, so too are classic shapes, notably a trench-coat which is turned into a cape. All this points to a new versatility, seen particularly in a series of effortless day dresses, which are given a precious twist by placed sequin embroideries. Intricate embellishment is a key feature of the collection, nowhere more so than in lace intarsia which, in transforming the LV graffiti motif, mixes toughness with femininity.
Accessories reinterpret urban staples in a luxurious spirit and classics with a touch of cool. Key pieces include a zippered snood in fisher fur with a graffiti lining, Louis Vuitton knuckledusters, a wool and cashmere knit collar with fox fur trim, glamorously oversized sunglasses in acetate and leather, and a slim calfskin belt with blackened metal studs.
For shoes, the shape of the season is bold and graphic with a curved heel and a dramatically elongated, pointed back. Velvety suede and glossy glazed calf leather maximize the impact of deep black, burgundy and blue. Boots are more overtly sexy and play on sophisticated visual effects, with both a fishnet knee boot and a slinky thigh boot coming with a trompe-l’oeil shoe attached.
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