Maiyet Fall Winter 2013 Collection

Monday March 4, 2013 – Palais de Tokyo

One of life’s little joys is bringing home a piece of memorabilia from a place you’ve visited so that upon a glance or a touch, you can be instantly whisked back to whence you came from. Sometimes holding onto the souvenir is as important as holding onto the memory, especially when that place is far off the beaten track. So it bears notice that Maiyet’s designer, Gabriella Zanzani, who upon returning from her treks into the Himalayas, was inspired to translate the sights, textures and colors of that region into an imaginative Fall collection that gives a poignant glimpse into her memories of fiery villages and snow capped panoramas.   Naturally, outerwear was a key component to the narrative, with cropped jackets, blazers and parkas giving off a young, downtown feel. The brand’s sense of youthfulness is never lost on the audience and is reinforced through fun, feminine numbers like a schoolgirl look with white pleated top and matching short jacket with a layered skirt. The incorporation of a horizontal fuchsia line across a vest and hooded parka number was a welcome pop of color which later transcended into a series of fiery red numbers such as a cloque harness long sleeve top, skinny pants and a degrade sweater. Sleek, Italian-crafted black and burgundy wood boots, either studded or tasseled, came in mid-calf to knee length proportions; ideal for making it through the snowdrifts on the sidewalks of NY or Paris this past winter. Fur t-shirts and felted blanket skirts kept with the theme of softness and comfort. Sculptural gold and horn necklaces as well as truss bracelets from Indonesia will be sure to please accessories addicts. Sleeveless dresses, either short or maxi, looked effortless and silhouette-slimming while a black, v-neck cleavage-baring gown was goddess-like. Though memories of places and dreams can become clouded over time, Maiyet’s vision for Fall is as sharp as ever.

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Photos courtesy of stylerumor.com

Moncler Grenoble Fall Winter 2013 Collection

Saturday February 9th 2013 - Gotham Hall

Moncler Grenoble unveiled its Fall 2013 collection earlier today in the impressive cupola of Gotham Hall in New York.

The iconic brand impressed again with a brilliant visual spectacle, creating circular light effects. Five rows covered the circular walls along which 370 boys and girls wearing Moncler Grenoble AW 2013/14 collection lined up, whilst a mirror hanging from the ceiling reflects kaleidoscopic repetitions of their images.

Only one colour, green, dominated the scene in a variety of hues. The green of the trees that bring to life Alpine peaks where wind, sky, snow and ice reign supreme.

A new high altitude ritual in the heart of Manhattan.

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Video courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Wednesday October 3, 2012 – Cour Carree du Louvre

A strict perpendicular block interrupted at three levels forms the basis of every silhouette in this collection. The only deviation from the straight and narrow comes in the curve of the sleeve head. This disciplined approach is inspired in part by Les Deux Plateaux, a work by the conceptual artist Daniel Buren, which consists of 260 columns of three different heights arranged in a grid.

This is the first ever Louis Vuitton collection not to make use of the Monogram. Instead, the Damier pattern provides the house’s signature. Squares are arranged in mathematical grids in differing colours and textures and at varying scales, creating a boldly graphic quality. Abstracted flower shapes offer an organic contrast to these rectilinear structures.

The fresh simplicity of the forms belies the intensity of the processes that created them. The embellishments for which Louis Vuitton is renowned are deployed in ways that are not immediately obvious. The smallest sequins ever produced are arranged by the thousand to create fluid metallic surfaces. ‘Tuffetage’, a technique taken from carpet-making, is embroidered on cloth and leather to create a flock-like effect.

The collection is presented on a site-specific installation created by Daniel Buren in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. This presentation is dedicated to Yves Carcelle, for his years of dedication to Louis Vuitton.

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Photos and video courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Style by Katie Grand

Hair by Guido Palau for Redken

Makeup by Pat McGrath

Maiyet Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Monday October 1, 2012 – Palais de Tokyo

One can’t deny the nobleness of eco-friendly luxury brands that seek to deliver on their promise of exquisite design as well as giving back to disenfranchised communities by employing local artisans to produce their wares. But oftentimes the two ideas are imbalanced and can lead to clothes that, while are made of renewable resources or built by developing societies, fall flat on the aesthetics.

It seems that Maiyet’s broken the mold for next Spring and achieved what some would consider the “triple crown” of a brilliant collection – luxuriousness, desirability and wearability. But it also inscribed a fourth criteria that is very much a category it owns; the positive sentiment buyers get knowing that the pieces they’re wearing were forged by the hands of craftsmen whose works are little known outside of their isolated communities. That uniqueness is already the basis of what makes luxury items so desirable; its uniqueness that sets it apart from the rest. Thus, the first criteria has already been achieved.

Zanzani drew inspiration from the Mario Testino’s native Peru, taking elements from the artisana of ancient Incan stone carvings, the floating wood ‘cities’ along the banks of Lake Titicaca, and the cornucopia of colors dotting the fauna and flora of the Amazonian jungles. The first series of handwoven cotton white numbers came in shirt, shirt dresses, “skorts”, shift dress, and long-sleeved billowy-belted dress varieties, appearing to be right on trend for next season’s ‘see-through’ movement. Soft python appliqués and handmade floral embroideries on pleated skirts, chakin tops, jumpsuits, strappy dresses and tunics added a punch of sublimity and detail. Frog prints on skirts, trousers, and crew neck tees worked especially well when paired against contrasting tones, as seen with a turquoise back-pleated shirt with a broken lapis lazuli placket. At no point though did the looks stray from these successfully simple but sophisticated silhouettes, which already affirms that Zanzani achieved a second criteria – wearability.

Lush green and blue handmade silk tops, pleated skirts, and blazers, mosaic yellow flowy skirts, and amphibiously red and black strapless dresses showed the designer’s knack at working with powerfully graphic prints. The wide array of accessories, with jewelry crafted in such exquisite varieties as to stand out on their own, perfectly complimented every single look. Poison dart lariats, carved Amazonian horns, diamond cuffs, studded chunky rings, and Machu Pichu print bracelets could give jewelers in Paris a run for their money. Other covetable pairings included Aztec cage wedges, leafy heels, structured clutches, and softened leather bags. The beauty of these pieces lies also in the fact that they are mostly separables, making them instantly appealing for their ability to adapt to any wardrobe; a fact that instantly satisfies the final criteria of desirability.

After a sullen start only a year ago, Maiyet finally breaks from convention for next Spring and introduces a collection that is equal parts fashion and philanthropy; a trend that we hope more designers begin to imitate.

Shop Maiyet via Barneys.com

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Photos courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Stella McCartney Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Monday October 1, 2012 – Opera Garnier

Graphic and layered, the collection plays with geometry in fresh and optimistic colours.Elliptical shapes of white, bright orange and black flow on sheer linear dresses. Ultra-fine silk rib knits worn under micro-plisse skim the body, creating shadows in movement.Spearmint and paper white gauze knit is effortless. Sleeveless and belted summer tweed in forest green brings the utility of outerwear onto feminine and delicate columns.
Skin is subtly revealed in crisp white twill sharp cut shoulders, boned cotton bustiers and asymmetrical pique wrap dresses and skirts. Tailoring is tapered, touching the hips, defined by boxed-in jackets and paired with cropped sleeves and trousers. Print plays on scale in deep green on fluid crepe de chine. Circular cuts add a twist to traditional patterns.

Diamond cut work embroidery in white and black silk organzas are contrasted with masculine shapes to define the understated sexiness of the collection.
Silk organza, cut on the bias for evening, is embroidered in circular shapes of abstract print or bold colors to contour the body and reveal fleeting glimpses of shadows and transparency.

Utility bags with wide long straps. Floating Lucite platform wedges in scuba or organic cotton are in a mix of vivid colors. Oversize sunglasses echo the spirit of the collection. Clutches are in giant gem shapes, or clear Lucite, trapping the dotted print.

Shop Stella McCartney via stellamccartney.com

Stella McCartney Spring 2013 Video

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Photos and video courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Isabel Marant Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Friday September 28, 2012 – Couvent des Cordeliers

There was a time when Isabel was solely known for her innate ability at translating Parisian ‘street chic’ into brilliantly wearable RTW. But for the past few seasons, Izzy’s girl has moved on from the city of lights onto other locales, from New York to the Midwest, each time adopting the clothing of the terra franca while still keeping to her French roots. This time is no different, as the Marant girl heads even further west, leaving behind her Navajo-inspired digs for the glitz and glam of Las Vegas casinos and the beach-life of Maui’s north shore.

The show kicked off with a surfers tune playing overhead followed by a sequence of flirty petal-print rompers, one-shoulder tops, and short-sleeve blouses knotted at the bust. Red coral-like embellishments added a beautifully bright contrast against the darker tone pieces, while cropped, narrow white jeans carried a variation of the floral print down to the mid-calf. The theme of bathing suits worn as normal day-wear (a concept seen across a few Paris runways this season, namely at Lanvin and Gauthier) also made a debut here, this time worn with a rose-red knitted print on a skirt. And given the short hemlines across several looks, we’ve gotten the impression that 2013 will be all about showing some leg.

Playing with the flower narrative, this time with rivets as the medium of expression, led to some interesting results. A short, ivory cropped jacket with a floral rivet design along the shoulders and pastel paisley-flower cardigans and skirts with riveted linings had a an welcome edgy contrast to an otherwise purely feminine piece. Isabel’s play with rivets is actually not without reason: using it as linings on pockets, across the sides of pant leggings and trimmings on skirts added a nice bit of detail and attention to the piece’s lines, in many cases creating dimension or the illusion of added length. Silky shirt-dresses with a low-slung brown leather belt and gold buckle looked like a mirage of some of our past favorite Marant pieces, but with a colorfully hypnotizing twist. The paisley print was toyed with in mustard yellows, taking it back into a one-shoulder romper shape and then stretched into shirt-jean combo.

After finishing her criss-cross tour of Americana, will we be seeing Marant heading even further west and onto the Far East? Who knows. But it seems that whatever city or region Isabel sets her sights on, she never loses sight of making clothes that are ‘oh-so-beautifully’ French.

Shop Isabel Marant via Net-A-Porter.com

Isabel Marant Spring 2013 Video

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Photos and Video courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Lanvin Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Thursday September 27, 2012 – Ecole des Beaux Arts de Paris

There must be something in the water in Paris because it seems that a slew of designers have all been afflicted with a strong case of nostalgia. Take Alber Elbaz’s Spring 2013 show, which showed all the tell-tale signs of a yearning for the past, with its strongly defined 90’s shoulder silhouettes, YSL smoking jackets and classic Japonismse kimono belting.

There was a bit of irony in the juxtaposition between showing at the École des Beaux Arts, with its sculptured marble statues perched high above the stadium-high ceilings, and Elbaz’s collection of square shouldered jackets and box-shaped printed tunics. But given his whimsical nature, it should’t surprise many. What was a surprise however was his break from beautiful one-shoulder dress-draping and experimenting with a variety of new materials and techniques. Take for example his opening look, a cleavage baring black cotton jumper with a cropped silk lapel smoking jacket, cinched at the waist with a faded wood-grain textured belt. This foreign departure from his usual one-piece dress repertoire was a welcome shakeup of the usual fare. And the timing could not be better either; after celebrating his 10 years at the famed fashion house, Alber might’ve felt compelled to break from the cycle of the house codes and opt for something new and different.

Black cotton or leather jumper looks with kimono-belt fastened waistlines, while exquisitely done, felt a bit too literal in their references to YSL though an asymmetrical bathing suit number with a pair of ankle-cropped trousers looked absolutely stunning. But there were quibbles to be had with the belting on certain dresses which, while appearing to have been integrated as deconstructed seams across busts and waistlines, looked a bit sloppy and having been integrated as an afterthought. But his fortés lied with his jackets. especially a perfecto with a white lapel inset and a sharp black-grey fabric division at the sleeves that accentuated the length of the torso and had a sublime slimming effect.

Sleeveless Venus de Milo silk prints on boxy tunics with gold-plated choker necklaces were humorously playful, though that moment was quickly replaced by severely embellished numbers. Geometric hardware in metallic gold and shiny black stone varieties were intricately stitched across the fabrics of taffeta jackets, jumpers, pants, and dresses that, despite its decorative qualities, felt a little-bit ‘kitchsy’ and not unlike something that one’s mother might’ve worn to Studio 54 in her disco-heyday. It seems that in Elbaz’s haste to make these highly ornamental looks, he might have also neglected to take into account about how one could comfortably sit on chair with them on, but that might be resolved prior to production.

The final series of looks were done in variety of neutrals, muted turquoises, mustards, violets, burgundies and greens evolved the belting theme into ribboning, along shoulders and hips. Taking a step back at the collection does offer a bit of perspective about the direction where Lanvin has been and where it is heading. Given his time at YSL many moons ago and the location choice (Beaux-Arts was a favorite of Yves), Alber may be trying to cash in on the attention being focused on Hedi Slimane as he unveils his first Saint Laurent collection. Thunder-stealing? Perhaps a bit, but when done as well as Elbaz has demonstrated, one can’t complain too much either.

Shop Lanvin via Net-A-Porter.com

Lanvin Spring 2013 Video

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Photos and Video courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Mugler Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Wednesday September 26, 2012 - Cité de l’Architecture & du Patrimoine

Nicola Formichetti and Sebastien Peigné brought equatorial heat to the concrete jungle for their latest Spring 2013 collection, infusing sculptural designs, hourglass silhouettes, and bold tropical colors into the urban street girl archetype. The show notes mentioned “Mexico City to South East Asia” as sources of inspiration but we’re more inclined to believe that Nicola’s affinity for vacationing in Tulum and working on magazine shoots in Japan had some influence as well.

Though Formichetti is an avid proponent of social networking medias, his choice of a single-sided runway inside of the Cité de l’Architecture positioned the audience to view the clothes like they would view a film; perhaps a subtle nudge to have attendees focus on the presentation, not their status updates. But the subtleties would have been unnecessary, given that the duo put out their most mature collection to date.

Deconstructing the futuristic frocks that makeup the Mugler paradigm resulted in separates that kept the brand’s DNA while making it easier for folks to mix and match looks. Take for example the series of opening numbers with knife-pleated skirts that would look just as great with the rust toned silk scarf top or ‘opium’ burgundy varnished lambskin tee. Scuba knitwear miniskirt-short hybrids and sliced armorial accents on pants, skirts, and dresses conveyed a sense of rigidness and sturdy construction that contrasted beautifully against lantern sleeve shaped skirts and kimono-like blouses that conveyed a feeling of fluidity and ease. Ink printed mylar tees, with emblazoned hues of orange, reds and sky blues, look like they were plucked from Nicola’s memories of a beautiful summer sunset on Playa Del Carmen. Peigné and his team appeared to have fun with prints, taking a white tiger head print and placing it on a burnt rust tone pleated skirt giving the impression of seeing the majestic creature peer his head out from amongst tall bamboo stalks.

But the show wasn’t just a forum to display the latest RTW. In fact, my first point about the set design begins to make sense when you consider that this was the Mugler house’s first foray into handbags. With each model sporting the newest bags on their left hand, everyone was treated to getting their first look at Formichetti’s designs. The most notable of these were the rigid, sac-à-main clutches which harken the Mugler design ethos, but with infused exotic leathers for added effect. The results are artisanally built bags that simultaneously convey a not-so-subtle sensuality with a futuristic sophistication.

And while she was busy on tour in Zurich that night, Lady Gaga’s presence as musical director was still felt as her yet-to-be released track ‘Cake’ was remixed by Michel Gaubert for the show. Azealia Banks, herself a front-row attendee alongside the Courtin Clarins sisters, had her “Esta Noche” track make its own cameo for the show.

Perhaps the most paradoxical of all sentiments that one takes away from this Mugler show is that despite all of its multi-faceted components, they all seemed to have come together as one unified idea; a formula that has served Formichetti and Peigné well these past few seasons and which seems to be the secret to their meteoric successes.

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Mugler Spring 2013 video

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Photos and video courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Makeup by Val Garland

Hair by Sam McKnight

Music by Lady Gaga remixed by Michel Gaubert

Backstage at Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2013

Sunday September 23, 2013 - Metropol viale Piave, 24

To the sound of Domenico Modugno’s “Meraviglioso” contemporary sun kissed maidens in vintage style dresses waltzed down the catwalk in a thoroughly folkloristic setting. Prickly pear cacti set the scene as Sicily’s heritage was transformed into high fashion.
The concept behind the collection is summer in Sicily: the garments are destructured; yet maintain that high octane glamour, we all love about Dolce&Gabbana. The concept of holiday and holiday dressing is breathed through the collection, and reached a Milanese audience who missed the days spent by the beach. Sicily is the other leg of the tripod: from visual prints representing Moorish vases or the highly decorated wheels of traditional Sicilian carts made up colourful prints which epitomize summer, and the tastes and traditions of Sicily.
The visual prints for SS13 portray the Pupi- traditional marionettes clad in chivalric armour and iconic goatee, and the famous Caltagirone vases shaped in the forms of Moorish heads with turban and all. These prints are characteristically mixed and matched in an eye-popping mix of colour and humour.
Sun, sea and Sicily. This is exactly where Dolce&Gabbana have drawn inspiration from for their stripes. Looking and the traditional umbrellas and sun loungers, the thick horizontal stripes emphasize the new silhouettes; the full skirts, trumpets and a lines. The stripes, both textured and block colour are printed on silk organza, cotton brocade and simple cotton.
The accessories are where the traditions and colours of Sicily come alive: wicker platforms or low square heels. Embroidered raffia Dolce Bags and bucket bags with flowers or pompoms and Moorish printed wedges.
A plethora of cute vintage style bathing suits- printed, striped, bikinis, one pieces, even tankinies. Culottes, mini ruffled skirts and oversize bras finished the show in a joyous vintage beach mood.

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Styled by: Yuri Ahn

Makeup by Pat McGrath

Hair by Guido Palau for Redken

Photos courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana

Diesel Black Gold Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Tuesday September 11, 2012 – Pier 92

Somewhere between the leatherworker ateliers outside of Venice, Italy and the skater parks of Venice Beach, California, Sophia Kokosalaki discovered her inspiration for her latest collection. Set inside a hollowed, paint chipped warehouse on Pier 40, a series of skaterboarders kicked off the show pulling stunts on a set of ramps headboarding the catwalk. The intro wasted no time at making a powerful statement: this collection would be as much about street style as it would be about the brand’s tradition of luxe leather-wear. One by one, models streamed out sporting sharp, but feminine silhouettes that played with the brand’s DNA of refined, contemporary edginess paired with 90’s-esque prints.

Staying mostly in black and white territory, the collection did offer a large variety of wearable pieces. Ivory short skirts, blanc asymmetrical perfectos and distressed leather  jackets, as well as white sheer corseted dresses contrasted beautifully against tailored oversized cardigans, ankle trimmed trousers, and noir see-through square-mesh dresses. The dual-chromatic motif ollied into prints and color, with denim jeans being given a graphic, street-art treatment and turquoise and salmon neoprene accents on a few numbers. Accessories-wise, strappy, fringe stilettos, elongated tassel belts, and supple-leather clutches added the right amount of titivation to already strong looks. All in all, Sophia’s sporty take on street chic kickflips the status quo to the curb with a brilliantly high octane collection.

Shop Diesel Black Gold via Diesel.com

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Photos courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Backstage at Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2013

Sunday September 9th, 2012 – The Highline

For the past few seasons, Tommy Hilfiger has presented his mens and women’s collection outside of the fabled tents, leveraging the background scenery to tell a narrative. This season was no different for his women’s showing, which was set inside of the Highline park on Manhattan’s lower west side. Lanterns, with their auburn fiery glow were lined along the entrance and hung over the runway, dancing in the wind as a cool breeze broke the stifling summer heat from the day before.

Backstage, stylist Karl Templer and makeup artist Diane Kendal were busy adding their final touches to their works before Tommy comes in for a final inspection. Diane helped makeup artists work on their models, who were busy being powdered, primed, and perfected on a stage above the clothing racks where Karl was finalizing his styling choices. Mr. Hilfiger’s arrival was met with excitement by the staff, who all seemed exhilarated to present his vision in its final form. After taking a peek at the look board followed by an inspection of the clothes and luxurious leather bags on the accessories table, Tommy could hardly wipe the smile from his face. As his staff pressed on, he took some time to provide interviews with the throngs of magazines lined up to speak with him.

Back at the Highline, as guests streamed in so too did the wind, picking up briskly off the Hudson but having the net effect of making the lanterns dance above like wind chimes; it was almost surreal for its simplicity and natural beauty which seemed fitting for TH. In fact, it was almost as if Tommy himself meticulously planned everything to set the perfect, right down to the weather.

Lights dim for just a moment and then in flash of light, all was revealed. One by one, models stepped down from a small wooden Hampton’s cottage at the head of the runway, and revealed TH’s new take of his much-lauded ’85 nautical and safari collection. Bold variations of the Americana color palette, with its regal blues, bold reds, and subtle whites, produced brilliant zigzag print shirtdresses and swimsuits as well as Balenciaga-esque multi-striped leather dresses. Trompe l’œuil rope prints on suit numbers and twisty shirt frocks offered a modern take on maritime motifs, while varsity silk dresses with patriotic trimmings looked modishly minimalist.

A few looks from the men’s collection earlier in the week also made it to the women’s runway, almost as if their counterpart model girlfriends took it from their boyfriends closets and transformed them into something only a women could carry. Case in point, cable knit sweaters with mustard trims and striped cardigans, worn to the waist on the men, reappear elongated to short-dress proportions.

Stripes, whether in breton or multi-tonal patterns, looked sleek on many numbers, be it on a sand silk blouse, navy and white knit polo, or as an open-weave dress. From the sea to a Dakar rally across the Sahel, Tommy shifted into high gear with racing stripe motto pants and jackets and sand tone swimsuits and wide-legged trousers. For evening, a pair of mustard and red trapeze dresses with white hems summarized the collection in one fell swoop: it demonstrated Mr. Hilfiger’s ability to deliver on effortlessly simple clothing, that are simply empirically sophisticated.

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Photos courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Y-3 Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Sunday September 9, 2012 - St. John’s Center Studios

In the ten years Yohji Yamamoto has collaborated with Adidas, the Y-3 brand has helped elevate the sportswear powerhouse from the gridiron to the runway; a feat that many of its competitors have yet to replicate successfully. It may be because of the success of the Y-3 brand that Adidas has gone on to hedge its bets in chic activewear, collaborating with Yohji’s peers Stella McCartney and Jeremy Scott. To commemorate their longstanding relationship, Yohji flew into the Big Apple to show off his latest wares; an important detail to highlight given that he hasn’t attended a New York showing since his previous collection’s debut at Park Ave. Armory where Zinedine Zidane made a cameo and Yohji got into “street-chic fight” with his models.

Alongside the dark warehouse walls of the St. John’s Center were three-dimensional, triangular, white cardboard cutouts that reflected a kaleidoscope of colors and imagery being projected from above. Yohji was clearly bringing some of the later evening’s anniversary festivities to the runway and it showed in his play on the Adidas logo and through his use of vibrant hues and patterns. Knee-length soccer socks (a nod perhaps to his front-row guest in attendance David Beckham), white armband stripes on jackets, and asymmetrical oversized striped leggings were high-spirited plays on the brand’s triple strips trademark.

Masterful at creating looks that teeter between sport and serious, Yohji pairs sand tone jackets with wide-legged shorts, two-tone blue-black patchwork jackets with asymmetrical zippers to crisp, ankle-showing noir pants, and breton-striped blouses to a flowy cardigan, that look just as much at home by the tennis courtside as they do at a casual soiree. Standouts amongst the collection were jungle pattern prints set against black short-sleeved shirts and skirts as well as a series of sheer anoraks, skirts, and dresses with silk-screen images against a sky-blue background tone.

If the saying “time flies when you’re having fun” rings true, then the last 10 years must’ve been a blur for Yohji and his growing throngs of fashion followers.

Visit http://www.y-3.com

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Photos Courtesy of Stylerumor.com

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