Chanel Cruise 2011/2012 Collection

Monday May 9, 2011 – Eden Roc – Cap d’Antibes

As a Première to the Cannes Film Festival, Karl Lagerfeld brings his spotlight to Eden-Roc. With a breathtaking view of the sky meeting the Mediterranean Sea, the legendary Eden-Roc has welcomed generations of stars who have come to seek haven from the ever-buzzing paparazzi. Next to the Cap d’Antibes, this mythical hotel has become the set of CHANEL’s 2011-12 Cruise show. With his collection and short film, entitled “The Tale of a Fairy”, Karl Lagerfeld brings to life his chic vision of the Riviera. After Saint-Tropez in May 2010, the House of CHANEL has come back to the Côte d’Azur to explore what Karl Lagerfeld calls “the other side of paradise”, stretching from Cannes to Monaco.

The style? “A certain discipline in the clothes with a glamour inherited from the 1950s, a glamour that is more natural, more interior, miles away from the current red carpet trends,” comments Karl Lagerfeld. It was an intimate show attended by HRH the Princess of Hanover, CHANEL ambasadresses Anna Mouglalis, Blake Lively and Vanessa Paradis, actresses Clémence Poésy, Marine Vacth and Rachel  Bilson,  as  well  as  Laura  Bailey,  Alexa  Chung,  Poppy Delevingne  and Caroline Sieber.

In one long take, the models stroll under the shade of the pine trees lining the runway and stretching down to the sea. Between masculine and feminine, day and night, High Jewellery and trompe l’oeil embroideries, the role play between these elements is second nature that underlines the elegance of movement.

Hollywood allure dramatises tweed suits, with slim silhouettes infinitely stretched by narrow jackets with lotus-like collars and long skirts that cut short the step.

Jackets, with a very masculine-feminine spirit, separate body from sleeves with shoulder pads sometimes embroidered with a crystal trim that shrink or stretch into cardigan or coat forms.

Men’s shirts in cotton are grafted under chiffon blouses and are nonchalantly worn with fluid trousers. Large shorts are worn with sweaters and twin sets with a floral motif.

For dips in the sea, swimsuits inspired by the 1930s are made androgynous thanks to tuxedo and men’s cardigan trompe l’oeil effects. Others are illuminated by jewelled belts under two- tone ponchos inspired by modern art. As a reference to this Riviera chic spirit, jackets even feature terry-towelling and fine mesh fabrics.

Cocktail looks highlight the freshness of youth. Flowers, embroidered by Lesage, bloom on strapless ensembles, stitched onto a sheath of tulle. Constructivist triangle motifs in multicoloured leather beautifully decorate trapeze dresses with XXL pockets.

Slips, button-down shirts, fluid like silk made into second skins… the mermaid like silhouettes play hide and seek with the back. The CHANEL Fine Jewellery icons, pearls and diamonds, are mirrored also by costume jewellery on the braided gowns, buttons and belts, even as a motif, on the silk sheath embroidered with comets. A reference to Gabrielle Chanel who relished mixing real and costume jewellery.
The tweed, organza, satin, crêpe and silk chiffon, but also on the smooth side, knit, panne velvet and sponge velvet harmonize in a graphic palette, all in shade and light for a photographic effect. White, sometimes iridescent and othertimes off-white, is most often blended with black in a chequered pattern and other two-tone plays. Navy blue, sometimes spiced with red hints at the glamorous cruise wit and some touches of fresh pastel: yellow, mimosa and parma violet.

Between dance and leisure, “tango-tongs” and “tango-boots” bring a freedom of movement and invent a new genre: hybrids between flip-flops, strappy heels and soft amazonian boots. Discrete bags, for the most part, leave hands free, with a tom-boy two-tone spirit for the “Boy” bag, or a mini quilted vality case that recalls an icebox. The silhouette is finished off with a humourous note thanks to little two-tone boaters.

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See all the looks below:

Making Of: Chanel Cruise 2012 “Tale Of a Fairy”

After Saint-Tropez last year, Karl Lagerfeld spent his days in the shade of the pines of the Villa Eilenroc in the Cap d’Antibes. For three days, the designer went behind the camera to film “Tale Of a Fairy” starring Anna Mouglalis, Chanel ambassadress, Amanda Harlech, Kristen McMenamy, Freja Beha, Bianca Balti, Brad Koening, Jake Davies, Mark Vanderloo, Oriol Elcacho, Sébastien Jondeau, among other friends of the House.

Belle Epoque atmosphere, beige furniture, cream parasols, chiffon dresses and swimsuits define the elegance of the new Chanel Cruise 2012 Collection. Anna Mouglalis which stars in “Chez Gino” a movie directed by her partner Samuel Benchetrit, was talking a lot on a couch with the cast ephebes Baptiste Giabiconi and Seth Kuhlmann.

On set Karl Lagerfeld replayed the scene again and again. Like in a diet coke commercial  between each shots, a server, wearing a white jacket, black tie and silver tray, was bringing a glass full of the designer’s drink of choice. For three days, hundreds of people, technicians, makeup artists, cinematographer, cinematography, models made “Tale of a Fairy” possible … “They are all familly for Karl” said Elise Boireaux – de Bellefonds, “He needs to be surrounded by people he likes.”

After Antibes, the whole team moved to Monaco to shoot scenes at the Monte Carlo casino and also outside.

The final scene takes place at the Monte Carlo Casino. For the occasion the casino had been transformed into a movie set. There was even a black and white fight scene shot around a gambling table. An eye on the board, the other on the monitor screen, Karl directs, sitting in a chair with his name embroidered on it. After each scene completed an admiring Karl was praising and applauding his actors. Around the table,  the star: Anna Mouglalis, the Adonis Baptist Giacobini, the statuesque Kristen McMenamy, the amazing Amanda Harlech and beautiful Brad Kroenig, all acting in Chanel. And for the atmosphere, real casino croupiers play their own role with great fanfare as “faites vos jeux”!

Watch “Tale of a fairy” on Chanel.com on May 10th 2011 at 9.00pm GMT

See our slideshow below:

Photos by J.T Stylerumor.com