Backstage at Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2013

Sunday September 9th, 2012 – The Highline

For the past few seasons, Tommy Hilfiger has presented his mens and women’s collection outside of the fabled tents, leveraging the background scenery to tell a narrative. This season was no different for his women’s showing, which was set inside of the Highline park on Manhattan’s lower west side. Lanterns, with their auburn fiery glow were lined along the entrance and hung over the runway, dancing in the wind as a cool breeze broke the stifling summer heat from the day before.

Backstage, stylist Karl Templer and makeup artist Diane Kendal were busy adding their final touches to their works before Tommy comes in for a final inspection. Diane helped makeup artists work on their models, who were busy being powdered, primed, and perfected on a stage above the clothing racks where Karl was finalizing his styling choices. Mr. Hilfiger’s arrival was met with excitement by the staff, who all seemed exhilarated to present his vision in its final form. After taking a peek at the look board followed by an inspection of the clothes and luxurious leather bags on the accessories table, Tommy could hardly wipe the smile from his face. As his staff pressed on, he took some time to provide interviews with the throngs of magazines lined up to speak with him.

Back at the Highline, as guests streamed in so too did the wind, picking up briskly off the Hudson but having the net effect of making the lanterns dance above like wind chimes; it was almost surreal for its simplicity and natural beauty which seemed fitting for TH. In fact, it was almost as if Tommy himself meticulously planned everything to set the perfect, right down to the weather.

Lights dim for just a moment and then in flash of light, all was revealed. One by one, models stepped down from a small wooden Hampton’s cottage at the head of the runway, and revealed TH’s new take of his much-lauded ’85 nautical and safari collection. Bold variations of the Americana color palette, with its regal blues, bold reds, and subtle whites, produced brilliant zigzag print shirtdresses and swimsuits as well as Balenciaga-esque multi-striped leather dresses. Trompe l’œuil rope prints on suit numbers and twisty shirt frocks offered a modern take on maritime motifs, while varsity silk dresses with patriotic trimmings looked modishly minimalist.

A few looks from the men’s collection earlier in the week also made it to the women’s runway, almost as if their counterpart model girlfriends took it from their boyfriends closets and transformed them into something only a women could carry. Case in point, cable knit sweaters with mustard trims and striped cardigans, worn to the waist on the men, reappear elongated to short-dress proportions.

Stripes, whether in breton or multi-tonal patterns, looked sleek on many numbers, be it on a sand silk blouse, navy and white knit polo, or as an open-weave dress. From the sea to a Dakar rally across the Sahel, Tommy shifted into high gear with racing stripe motto pants and jackets and sand tone swimsuits and wide-legged trousers. For evening, a pair of mustard and red trapeze dresses with white hems summarized the collection in one fell swoop: it demonstrated Mr. Hilfiger’s ability to deliver on effortlessly simple clothing, that are simply empirically sophisticated.

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Photos courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Y-3 Spring Summer 2013 Collection

Sunday September 9, 2012 - St. John’s Center Studios

In the ten years Yohji Yamamoto has collaborated with Adidas, the Y-3 brand has helped elevate the sportswear powerhouse from the gridiron to the runway; a feat that many of its competitors have yet to replicate successfully. It may be because of the success of the Y-3 brand that Adidas has gone on to hedge its bets in chic activewear, collaborating with Yohji’s peers Stella McCartney and Jeremy Scott. To commemorate their longstanding relationship, Yohji flew into the Big Apple to show off his latest wares; an important detail to highlight given that he hasn’t attended a New York showing since his previous collection’s debut at Park Ave. Armory where Zinedine Zidane made a cameo and Yohji got into “street-chic fight” with his models.

Alongside the dark warehouse walls of the St. John’s Center were three-dimensional, triangular, white cardboard cutouts that reflected a kaleidoscope of colors and imagery being projected from above. Yohji was clearly bringing some of the later evening’s anniversary festivities to the runway and it showed in his play on the Adidas logo and through his use of vibrant hues and patterns. Knee-length soccer socks (a nod perhaps to his front-row guest in attendance David Beckham), white armband stripes on jackets, and asymmetrical oversized striped leggings were high-spirited plays on the brand’s triple strips trademark.

Masterful at creating looks that teeter between sport and serious, Yohji pairs sand tone jackets with wide-legged shorts, two-tone blue-black patchwork jackets with asymmetrical zippers to crisp, ankle-showing noir pants, and breton-striped blouses to a flowy cardigan, that look just as much at home by the tennis courtside as they do at a casual soiree. Standouts amongst the collection were jungle pattern prints set against black short-sleeved shirts and skirts as well as a series of sheer anoraks, skirts, and dresses with silk-screen images against a sky-blue background tone.

If the saying “time flies when you’re having fun” rings true, then the last 10 years must’ve been a blur for Yohji and his growing throngs of fashion followers.

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Photos Courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Versace Fall Winter 2012 Ad Campaign

Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott are still on board with Versace for the third season, shooting their Fall 2012 ad campaign. Model Elza Luijendijk was styled by Joe McKenna and Photographed by the photo duo in London. Luijendijk poses on large cement blocks with chunky metal chains and a painted marine backdrop. The black-and-white images accent the contrasts between light and shade in the campaign. The men’s campaign features Philipp Schmidt, Dmitriy Tanner and Kacey Carrig, and was styled by David Bradshaw.

Shop Versace via Net-A-Porter.com

Making of Video

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Photos Courtesy of Versace by Mert and Marcus
Womenswear Styled by Joe McKenna
Menswear Styled by David Bradshaw
Artistic Direction: Giovanni Bianco
Makeup: Lucia Pieroni
Models: Elza Luijendijk, Philipp Schmidt, Dmitriy Tanner, Kacey Carrig

Pierre Balmain Fall Winter 2012 Collection

Balmain’s secondary line, Pierre Balmain, proved once again that it can stand in its own and if anything, compliments the house’s primary line. For Fall 2012, the mood is dark, poetic  with reinvented basics such as blacks paired with whites, grey and midnight blues.

 Classics are sensually modernized as seen on a black double breasted suit worn with an half open men’s white shirt. The multi-zippered leather biker jacket is worn loose, and an appealing 3/4 coat features a trompe l’oeil studded bolero. The chiffon blouse is embellished by animal prints while an all-over studs tank top is worn over a black t-shirt with laminated trousers.

 To illustrate the collection, the brand tapped Martial Scheltz to create a black and white film inspired by late fifties, early sixties French and Italian films. The film features models Melissa Stasiuk and Adrien Sahores embodying  the “Pierre Balmain” persona, looking at each other and being narrative  without saying a word. But you don’t need any dialogue to know that this latest collection will speak volumes to consumers.

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Visit  pierrebalmain.com

Pierre Balmain Fall Winter 2012 Film by Martial Scheltz

Photos Courtesy of Pierre Balmain
Video realisation: Martial Schmeltz
Artistic Direction: Atelier Frank Durand
Hair by Laurent Philippon
Makeup by Christelle Cocquet

Bottega Veneta Cruise 2013 Collection

Tomas Maier’s vision for its Bottega Veneta Cruise 2012 collection is double-sided. Instead of thinking of the cruise as the ultimate “going on vacation in the winter” collection he also thought about it as an urban collection. Inspired by the frescoes of Tiepolo and Veronese, Maier used  shades of yellow, peach, and mint green, mixed in a graphic way. Luxury houses, especially those that have a history have this challenge to always modernize themselves without loosing either their identity but also the house’s tradition. This is why the designer wanted to use futuristic  elements on the accessories such as the black rubber with aluminum embellishments but also a type of silk leather that the Italian house used in the seventies. Bottega Veneta is also launching his first resort collection for men, which will be available for sale next week.

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Bottega Veneta Cruise 2013 Collection Video

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Photos Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

Mugler Fall Winter 2012 Collection

Wednesday February 29, 2012 - Gymnase Japy

Knowing when “less is more” can be tricky for some of us, especially on those days when we want to wear all of our best clothes at the same time. This time around, Nicola Formichetti has decidedly stripped down the runway of any theatrical effects, leaving the clothes to speak for themselves. Set to the music of Ryuichi Sakamoto, the strong ‘maximal minalimist’ designs were as bold as the days when Jerry Hall used to entertain on the catwalk. And although hips and body bending are a Mugler signature, backstage, Nicola instructed girls to show “no hips” and to “stand up straight”; his modern take on the Mugler woman.

But Formichetti had something additional in mind, as was clear the second guests began to take their seats. Huddled around the runway, in an arena-like formation, guests were brought closer than ever to see the show. So close in fact, that those in the front row were practically on the runway itself.

The first pair of looks strutted out slowly in white hooded wool coats with elongated fox and mink fur kimono sleeves. Drawing inspiration from Thierry’s’97 “insect” collection, Formichetti and Peigné riffed on the concept, not in a literal way, rather, playing up the idea of the tribe and army. One by one, a phalanx of super heroines in highly architectural pieces took to the runway, weaving about almost at random. Praying mantis silhouettes, leaf-shaped peplums, cocoon sculpted coats with convex molded backs, and laser cut, web fringe skirts morphed into bold colored pieces midway through the show. A tomato-red blouse and trouser number followed by a kumquat orange body hugging dress with front facing slit were equal parts powerful and seductive. A trio of half-veiled, black-sheer ninja numbers closed the show; the perfect ‘yang’ to the opening ‘yin’.

Fans looked intently via Ustream as the designing pair took their customary bows. Nary 24 hours earlier, they were treated to working side by side with Nicola through the power of live streaming, as he and company toiled late into the evening at their atelier, finalizing the collection. And after seeing the fruits of their labor take to the catwalk, many fans will be eager to own a piece of a collection that they truly feel being a part of.

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See the full length looks below:

Video and photos courtesy of Stylerumor.com
Hair by Sam McKnight
Makeup Val Garland

Backstage at Tommy Hilfiger Fall Winter 2012

Sunday February 12, 2012 – Park Avenue Armory

Stepping back into the Park Ave Armory two days after showing his cadet inspired Men’s collection, Tommy Hilfiger unveiled a very chic and esquestrian tinged women’s collection. To compliment his sharp West Point military boys, the Tommy girl embodies a strong, classic American spirit that could just as easily transition from horseback riding in the countryside to stepping out at night on the streets of the Upper East Side. Based on the concept of “Town and Country” it was difficult not to think of Ali MacGraw strutting the Harvard campus in the 70′s hit, “Love Story”. This elite-collegiate style, once called “Sassy Class” by Candice Bergen, was a key theme from the first A-line skirt.

The first set of looks were a play on the tomboy silhouette but done in strong feminine proportions, a segue from the men’s collection though the use of black & plum melton wools in double breasted officer coats . Equestrian details are injected into silk dresses along with tromp l’oeil cable knits. A modern super slim burgundy cavalier houndstooth single breasted jacket is paired with a skinny pant version of a houndstooth matching jodhpur. A mustard colored motorcycle jacket and skirt pair with navy accents was one the most sublime looks midway through the collection.

“There is a timeless feel. The ambiance, these penny loafers riding boots and the equestrian helmets are so elegant” said french actress Elisa Sednaoui to a reporter.

A glance across the front row, past Uma Thurman, revealed Tommy’s daughter Ally Hilfiger alongside her boyfriend, who looked like that retro idyllic pair you’d find in an old photograph in your parents photo album. And Ali or Ally were a source of inspiration, to insinuate that Tommy’s collection was somehow nostalgic would be unfounded. If anything, this collection was more than just an evolution from the classic prep; something about this new Tommy woman felt effortlessly modern with a rich narrative that kept us enthralled to the very last look.

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Backstage and runway photos courtesy of Stylerumor.com
Celebrity photos courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger

Honest by Bruno Pieters

Launched on January 30, Honest by is a new fashion brand with a radical new concept. While the clothes are richly made from the finest materials, the concept is 100% transparency: Honest by is completely open about how its goods are made – and priced.

Every thread, button, factory-time and journey is documented for each Honest by piece, and presented openly to the customer. Honest by is the first company in the world to offer a cost breakdown of its products.

The label is curated by Bruno Pieters, the award-winning Antwerp-based fashion designer and art director. Pieters developed the Honest by concept after a sabbatical year spent exploring the developing world. His experiences, especially his time spent among native people in India, profoundly affected his thinking about fashion and inspired him to pioneer a new model for the fashion industry that made products honestly.

Pieters and his team took a further year for research, tracing raw materials back to their origins to be certain every element in each piece is:

• Mindful of the environment
•  Made in safe and fair working conditions
•  Kind to the wearer’s skin, Not harmful to animals
• Organic, wherever possible

Other internationally-renowned designers will also contribute designs and collections. New products will arrive throughout the year, recognizing that global travel makes the idea of seasons irrelevant. All items will be limited edition.

Shop Honest by via www.honestby.com

See all the lookbook below:

Girl model: Henna Lintukangas at FORD Paris
Boy model:Eugeniy Sauchanka at NEW MADISON Paris
Photography: Alex Salinas
Make up: Sofie Van Bouwel
Styling: Samuel Drira

Versace for H&M Cruise 2012 – Behind The Scenes

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Campaign: Versace for H&M Cruise 2012
Models: Abbey Lee Kershaw, River Viiperi

Versace for H&M Cruise 2012 Collection

Following on from the iconic Versace for H&M collection, Donatella Versace has created a brand new cruise collection that will be available from 19th January 2012 as an H&M online exclusive. The collection is designed as a holiday capsule wardrobe that’s also an instant style update for spring. The women’s collection is light and feminine, with a berries and butterflies print on dresses, tops, negligées, dressing gowns and a silk cashmere cardigan. There are also white jeans, bikinis, and accessories such as charm bracelets, print bags, ballet flats and high heels. For men, the focus is on fashion classics like a leather detail wool blazer, jeans and denim shirts, alongside pleat-front shorts in cotton or denim.

See the lookbook below:

Models: Abbey Lee Kershaw, River Viiperi

Burberry Prorsum Pre-Fall 2012 Collection

For Pre-fall Christopher Bailey gave some lightness to the modern british house. Always reinventing the brand is Bailey’s quest. A bow belt, recurrent throughout the collection give a romantic accent to perfectly cut structured coats and jackets. A gown has puffed shoulders, the jackets fitted and curvy.
Some pieces are covered with a Thirties chrysanthemum print, while sweaters feature an owl or dog cartoon.

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Photo: Courtesy of Burberry Prorsum

Y-3 Spring Summer 2012 Collection

Sunday September 11, 2011 – 82 Mercer St

For its Spring / Summer 2012, Y-3 took a tour of British style and athleticism, which makes sense when you consider the city will host the Olympics in 2012. Twists on English checks, Union Jack, and Londoner street chic were all par for the course. Dwight Howard, Samuel L.Jackson, Michael Pitt, and Peaches Geldof watched on as a procession of modular symmetric and asymmetric pieces charged down the runway.

London style is often both “street” and soft, and the collection of Y-3 does well to juxtapose the two extremes. Balancing hard and delicate elements, the women’s pieces included a leather jacket with a mesh back and a blazer with a ruffles along its seams. On the men’s side, classic suits were redefined through shirts and jackets. Piecing together several different materials produced a buttoned cotton pique polo with poplin sleeves and a brilliant canvas trench with Adidas printed sleeves .

Unbeknownst to the eye but not to the skin is the use of new semi-impermeable yet breathable materials. The use of these elements advance how fashion marries aesthetics to comfort, offering clients a comfortable, lightweight material made of a combination of durable nylon and soft jersey.

Accessories are a Y-3 staple and this collection did not disappoint.

Shoes came in a spectrum of colors and styles, many of whom recalled archival design elements such as the rubber adidas stripes. Elastic laces in shades of red and purple were worn looped around classic white, athletic shoes. A cut neoprene platform complimented the women’s looks while men sported English flag sneakers. The Decade, a new line of Y-3 shoes also made an appearance in shades of gold, silver and bronze. Y-3 also presented his first collection of glasses, with shapes and graphics in shades of rubberized black, white and orange

“For me, the style of London is a funky style,” said Mr. Yamamoto of the inspiration of the collection. “It’s not just the center of London. It’s not just punk. It is also refined. We tried to capture that. “

Shop Y-3 via y-3store.com

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