Backstage at Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2012

Tuesday July 3, 2012 – Grand Palais

Chanel takes you backstage at its “New Vintage” Haute Couture Fall 2012 show.

“Renovation, evocation, continuity and the opposite of all that: I took the spirit and attitude of Mademoiselle Chanel to create something contemporary,” explains Karl Lagerfeld. 

Blouses are made of white embroidered tulle with strands of feathers or a black bustier adorned with a large pink duchess satin bow, done in colors inspired by Marie Laurencin. Discover the amazing work of the Chanel Couture Ateliers as captured by Benoit Peverelli.

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Photos by Benoit Peverelli Courtesy of Chanel

Chanel Haute Couture Fall Winter 2012 Collection

Tuesday July 3, 2012 – Grand Palais

Chanel’s 1932 collection of unique jewelry served as inspiration for this year’s invitation cover; an updated collection that Karl Lagerfeld has dubbed as being “New Vintage”. As is often the case with Karl, the era that inspired it is never taken too literally. If he seems to dabble in contemporary musings (most of which seem to be ‘treated tweed’ – actually it’s embroidery), he does so by piecing together ideas from the 1930s’ and 1970s. Wide trousers are directly borrowed from Chanel in the 1930s, which gives off this look of luxurious nonchalance. Pant legs, stunningly straight and done in black or pearl gray tones, produce an ‘infinite leg’ effect. Top-wear saw silk blouses, torn organza, white tulle embroidered with strands of feathers or a black bustier, adorned with a large pink duchess satin bow, with “colors that are very Marie Laurencin,” says KL.

Subtle colors are the hallmark of this collection, with (large) luxury innuendos simply muted. Ash gray, gray, tea rose, petal ice, powder, glitter rainbow, flirt, storm, graphite, candy … all shades seem to have been created for Chanel as they are scaled to the millimeter in the quarter-tones. The scabbard, made entirely of thick-grain ribbons in gray and pink is purely mind-bending.

The “The Little Black Jacket” book, whose photos will be exhibited in Paris on November 8, features jewelry and the decor of today’s camellias; elements that embody the ‘New Vintage’ designed by Karl, and which recall the fundamentals of Gabrielle Chanel’s charter. Since 2009, Chanel couture buyers are continuously growing and are now much more international. If all holds true, then this watershed moment in Chanel’s history will be but a pale blue diamond in comparison to its great, pearly future.

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Chanel Haute Couture Fall 2012 Fashion Show Video

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Photos and Video courtesy of Chanel

Makeup by Peter Philips

Music: Be With You / Hercules And Love Affair , Labyrinth (Club Mix) / Joakim , In The Grace Of Your Love (Pional Remix) / The Rapture

Chanel Cruise 2013 Collection

Monday May 14th, 2012 – Chateau de Versailles

“This is not about reality, this is a fantasy, we need to dream and this is what we are doing today” pointed out Karl Lagerfeld as he gazed upon the splendor of the Trois Fontaines gardens in idyllic Versailles, the venue for his latest Cruise collection. For this off-season show, the Kaiser decided to invite press from all over the world to the chateau of chateaux, that of Louis XVI, to showcase his “Marie Antoinette-meets-manga”  collection. And the location could not have been more ideal: on a perfectly clear, blue sky day, journalists were whisked to a royal castle on the outskirts of Paris, one whose opulence and grandeur is in perfect proportion to its infinitely long gardens and canals.

Guests arriving at the Blvd. des Reines entrance were greeted to a row of Nattier blue and gold cabanas, with its 3 row seating, flanking parallel to a centerpiece fountain. And like a scene out of Inception, the intimacy of the locale felt very much like a dream within a dream, whose narrative would be told through Karl’s interpretation of the fantastical and imaginary.

 But given the location, there was an undercurrent risk that a literal interpretation of French royal-wear could be considered kitschy. Many a designer have traveled down similar paths only to be told their collections were too costumey and not made for the real consumer. But were others have failed, those that have gone onto success have done so by way of whimsy. By attrition of exquisite detail and styling, KL delivered a playfully whimsical collection that made us re-imagine Mrs. Antoinette as a  contemporary fashion neophyte.

For next Cruise season, Chanel took us to the lands of the Aristo-punk. Girls were bursting with freshness and ingenuity in their puffed microshorts that crumbled like baskets of lace ruffles, which was sometimes paired with small denim jackets in Marquis sky blue or white leather. Manga-styled hair bobs, sans rollers, were done in pink or black raven tones and placed atop a subtle pony-tail. Pastel eye shadows, blush-red cheeks skewing toward soft pink, assorted jewelry made of molten glass and milky plastic camellias in marshmallow hues completed the looks. “What counts is the spirit of this court, not the reality,” said again Karl Lagerfeld, who always filters the ‘establishment’ through the  sieve of his own liberal interpretations.

 But Karl offered counterpoint to the excesses of ruffles and royal connotations by styling the girls to be relaxed, not constrained. Whether the girls looked like Mrs. Fontanges in fragile ivory chiffon, or a more serious version of Madame  Montespan, or even a Mademoiselle Maintenon in a youthful tweed number, there was this inescapable boyish-girl quality that was sublimely fresh. One by one, they descended on the pebbled path, appearing like an army of candy shop punkettes, either in knickers or black leather  jeans, in jackets with multicolored, foam-shaped PVC details, strolling in sneakers, and dare one say even, creepers. The new versions of the “Boy” bag, a hit for the house, helped bridge the divergent concepts.

 Seeing this level of high-low contrast conjured up thoughts of Gabrielle Chanel, who once exclaimed that “Luxury is not democratic.” Strangely that day, it was. In its own way, at least.

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Chanel Cruise 2013 Backstage Video

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Photos and Video Courtesy of Chanel

Chanel Fall Winter 2012 Collection

Tuesday March 6, 2012 – Grand Palais

It’s like a dream, this is amazing” said Mouna Ayoub looking at the Chanel set in the Grand Palais. She is one of the few women that can have everything, but even she was amazed. In many ways, we all owe a small debt of gratitude to Ms. Ayoub, whose vast wealth is only matched by her penchant for Haute Couture. Because of clients like her, fashion houses can afford to treat the world to a collection that exemplifies the pinnacle of fine craftsmanship and unimaginable decadence.

Chanel is truly a multifaceted gem. Karl, no less faceted than the house of Coco, brilliantly explores every aspect of the brand by delivering a purely decadent runway show. The decor was composed of giant ores, smoky quartz and amethyst crystals, emerging from a bed of white gravel, and paired perfectly with a pulsating, energetic soundtrack remixed by Michel Gaubert.

For the past few seasons, Chanel has to toyed with idea of layering pieces, leaving the skin rarely exposed. This season was no exception. Womenswear saw softened drawstring tweed fabric on parkas. Things got even more interesting with dry tweed jackets and dress numbers which were worn with skinny pants, buttoned at the ankle; a clean way to refresh the current Chanel 2012-2013 winter trend of ‘super-layering’. Some of the looks offered afraser take on couture accessorisation, with loose coats in black tweed knotted with martingale belts, worn at the hip, fringed with red crystals at the edges; ditto on the black and white looks.

A toddler sporting the velour ‘Boy’ mini-bag rendered an otherwise fetish accessory into an adorable children’s piece. The jewelry looked raw and edgy with metal joints appearing to have been burned by a welder’s torch, which was then tempered by a gorgeous array of raw studded crystals.

Of course, the inspirations were of such variety that it felt as if there was a little something for everyone. And it appears as if this multi-pluralistic approach to fashion is paying off. “[They’re] buying as many accessories as they are buying clothes” says Bruno Pavlovsky, the house’s president of fashion activities. Starting today, the brand will provide clients with more choice, with the launch of its second Avenue Montaigne store. Already open, the 450 square meter boutique located at building No. 42 faces No. 51, where Chanel invested in a 600 square meter property that spans two floors. “On the first floor, eight fitting rooms can easily accommodate clients. At No. 42, the space was tight. Not enough room to accommodate everyone, “says Pavlovsky,, who was ready to fly to Tokyo to accompany the Haute Couture collection.

Presented in January, the same collection will bow for a second time in the ‘land of the rising sun’. The trip will be an opportunity to relaunch the aviation inspired pieces to even greater fanfare, and would be a first for Chanel. The trip will be capped with a series of photographs, shot by the Kaiser himself, which will go on display and focus on the jacket; the cornerstone of the Chanel empire dating as far back as the 1920′s.

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Photos and Video Courtesy of Stylerumor.com

Damir Doma Fall Winter 2012 Collection

Wednesday February 29, 2012 – Les Beaux Arts, Salle Melpomene

The irony behind Damir Doma is that women had already fallen in love with his menswear creations before he even introduced a womenswear line.
For fall, Damir Doma explores his own world, his own classic unisex monarchal silhouettes, folded coats and wrapped pieces that make his clothes instantly recognizable. But he did a little more than offer his iconic pieces; he reinvented them. Last winter, Damir unveiled his version of the tuxedo, which was a sleek long vest with a satin collar. For Fall 2012, the tuxedo collar seem to be a starting point as well. He cleverly twisted it, hence modernizing it to the point of edginess. This time his “neo” tuxedo is cropped and has a hint of ‘kimono’. it features aged leather sleeves or is fully made of shiny leather with a front zipper. In another look the jacket is texturally divided horizontally in contrasting materials.

A vest made of supple stitched leather is worn over a puffed shoulder renaissance shirt. His signature folded coat is transformed into a supple jacket adorned with zippers, a sort of unique perfecto. A lightweight silk, floaty knitwear sweater gives the illusion of medieval chain mail over an appealing flowy, suede skirt. Lace, hand-pleated ruffle collars add sophistication.

Renown for its intemporel minimalism, Damir Doma has perfectly parlayed that success from its men’s line into its womenswear collection, taking off into new and exciting territories.

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Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2012 Collection

Wednesday October 5, 2011 – Cour Carree du Louvre

Marc Jacobs chose to showcase his Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 collection on a carousel, as he said, to “celebrate the circular dance of fashion”. Contrary to last season’s fetish inspired show, today’s collection played on  lightness and romance. Louis Vuitton, a brand whose collections always seem to take in new directions every season never ceases to amaze.

This time transparency played its part with the opening looks featuring a redundant flower motif made in organza, wrapped in  anglaise. Then came more conservative suits, in cotton nylon, that looked like the house’s signature Damier checkerboard pattern. Broderie anglaise flowers evolved throughout the collection, used on the shirt collars and paired with silk cellophane wrapped laser-cut lace skirts. The girls had dewy rosy cheeks and a negligee chignon embellished by crystal and cowhide headbands.

But it wasn’t all sweetness and innocence, as crocodile-skin motorcycle coats and jackets added modernity and tinge of edginess to the collection. Last season’s handcuff has been replaced by a sterling silver musical bell-shaped bangle, whose inner bell-sphere made from a single pearl.

In this jeweled box atmosphere, the Lockit bag is joined by the Speedy,  fulfilling every bag addict’s expectations. The transformed Lockit is made translucent in pale voile showing a hidden classic Monogram coin purse. The Speedy couture, first introduced for the Fall 2010 collection, has evolved into a new more practical shape, seen in blue or off white crocodile. A new bag, inspired by retro supermarket shopping bags is declined in blue mirrored metallic leather. The accessory center piece of the show was the rounded “Coquille D’Oeuf” Minaudiere. This evening bag necessitated 300 hours of work, with its 12,500 pieces of egg ‘mosaique’,  forming its exterior Monogram. It might be a mere charming piece in some ways, but it may  possibly be seen by clients as being all the more precious for it’s exquisite craftsmanship; an idea that is at the heart of the house’s DNA and kept clients always yearning for more.

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Video and Backstage Photos by JT Stylerumor.com
Style by Katie Grand
Casting Michelle Lee
Hair by Guido Palau for Redken
Make-up Pat McGath
Set Faye Mcleod and Ansel Thompson

Vanessa Bruno Fall Winter 2011 Collection

Monday March 7th, 2011 – Palais de Tokyo

A bit of folk and romanticism exalted from Vanessa Bruno’s Fall 2011 collection. The designer went for an Eastern european style with head scarves, white cotton tablecloth dresses, embroidered thick wool coats and slouchy suede boots. Smock tops were layered over skirts with embroidered hems while coats were stripped of any apparent buttons. Gorgeous terra-cotta suede Shoulder bag crafted from terracotta suede, a Tuscan lamb collar and embroidered Coat showed Ms. Bruno’s knack at making “artisanal” chic.  And since ‘vintage looking’ pieces are her speciality, it only seems right that the designer opened up shop in the heart of all that is “vintage wear”, Melrose Avenue, L.A.. We especially love that every single piece can be easily mixed and matched, making the collection as a whole a must-have for any girl’s wardrobe.

Shop Vanessa Bruno via Net-a-Porter.com

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Photos and Video JT stylerumor.com
Makeup by Diane Kendal
Hair by Odile Gilbert

Mugler Fall Winter 2011 Collection

Wednesday March 2nd, 2011 – 2 rue Japy, Paris 75011

The revival of the iconic fashion house Thierry Mugler involved nothing short of a fashion uprising. Leading the charge of an army of PVC and Latex vixens were none other than acclaimed stylist, Nicola Formichetti, Sébastien Peigné, fashion designer, and fashion’s pop idol, Lady Gaga. At the Gymnase Japy, one-by-one, a phalanx of hip-swaying models strutted the catwalk in Metropolis shoulder jackets, moiré green trenches, latex high-waist pants and blue neoprene breast-bearing short dresses.

A few looks in, the platinum blond, pig-tailed music director took to the catwalk, sporting a bowtie-bra dress and exhuberating as much bravado as her newest single, Government Hooker, which played alongside the show. Skyscraper heels, Rein Vollenga’s “flesh-n-bone” wrist bangles, and sculpture-wear were befitting Nicola’s future woman, the “post-human android goddess”.

Coco Rocha’s captivating walk made it impossible for other models not to resist playing it up for the cameramen. “Rico”, aka Rick Genest, made an appearance shortly before a very feral Jessica Stam showed off a top-tattered sheer and neoprene long black dress. By the final looks, Atsuko Kudo’s translucent sculptured exo-shells accentuated shoulders, waists, and arms which paired well against the airiness from beige and white pieces.

Known for their avant-gardism, the Formichetti and Mugler marriage only seems natural. With the entire show livestreamed over Facebook, clearly the new creative designer has a clear vision of how to forge the best elements of fashion and technology. And if this latest collection is, as Nicola puts it, “an exploration in the anatomy of change” then we’ve just learned that it is the science of forward thinking design and masterful execution.

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Video and Photos J.T Stylerumor.com