Hermes Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 10th, 2010 – Halle Freyssinet

At Hermes there is always a mise en scene. For the fall 2010 Jean Paul Gaultier see the girls as Emma Peel. She wears all black and chapeau melon. In this collection we get to see all the tendances of next winter, with the leather that we saw everywhere else but so at home at Hermes. The jean and the mini skirt are in crocodile, more accessible the black leather is like a second skin. Sleeveless leather gown, draped on the hips, turtleneck or a three piece men suit, leather is everywhere. Hermes proved once again that they have a soul, thanks to Jean Paul Gaultier for reinventing Hermes while keeping the luxe house’s DNA.

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Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 10th, 2010 – Cour Carree du Louvre

You would close your eyes, listen to the delicate fountain’s clapotie and then open your eyes to get hit by beauty and feminity. The place, the Cour Caree du Louvre is now the ultimate place where marc Jacobs likes to show his Louis Vuitton collections. This time he decided to have the models walk around the louvre fountain, counter clockwise, to go back in time to the 60’s of “God created a Woman”. “Brigitte Bardot symbolizes the feminity, the sensuality, I just wanted to show beautiful women of all ages” said Jacobs. Laetitia Casta, the closest 2010 Brigitte Bardot version you could ever get opened the show, followed by Coco Rocha, Karolins Kurkova, Catherine Mcneil, Bar Rafaeli, Adriana Lima and the most unexpected Elle Mcpherson, also known as “The Body”.  Almost all looks featured a corset either in wool, leather, shetland or pinstripe to accent the curves, without any accessories beside some gloves leaving the feminity play the part. We saw a tweed jacket, sequined cable-knit sweater, a boiled wool pea jacket but the real star of the show was the iconic Louis Vuitton bag: the Speedy bag.

The Speedy has been reinterpreted for the Autumn-Winter 2010-2011. A new flap has been added and top handle. Reincarnated as a doctor’s bag, the monogram has been flocked and sequined, woven in metallic thread, remade in cloque, and in guipure lace over Duchess satin. The Damier patern has been recreated in fox, shaved goat and handpainted crocodile. And in its simplest form, the Speedy has been rendered in waxed calf and reconfigured as a doctor’s bag in grainy, supple calfskin.

Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show Final Video

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Chloe Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Tuesday March 9th, 2010 – Espace Ephemere – Jardins des Tuileries

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John Galliano Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Sunday March 7th, 2010 – Halle Freyssinet

A tribe of adventuring Galliano nomads trek through a mountainous terrain, crossing imaginary borders in search of a new land. In control of their destiny, subjected to the elements they are wrapped in brocades and worsted stripe blousonswith chunky knit rib tubes fitted tight on the hips. Trousers are inserted with knit panels for utility to an ever migrating tribes woman.

Her outfit tells her story, she accumulates as she migrates: brocade and astrakhan mix of mountain coats, panier skirted cabans thrust foward from the upper tight as do mini skirts layered over sarouel trousers. Her steps are sure laced into spike heel trekking boots.

Layering as she goes to protect herself from the harsh elements of the ever changing climate, she sheds and adds to adapt to her surrounds.
The tribal princesses are drapped in bias cuts spliced with yak fur mixing sauvage with refiined craftmanship. Delicate tulle is encrusted with mongolie fur and worn with barbaric fur and metal jewelery.

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Rue du Mail Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 3, 2010 – 5 rue du Mail

For Fall 2010 Martine Sibon explored new proportions. Known for her dresses the designer added some interesting suits, with an apparent complex tailoring. The trench is reinterpreted as a redingote, short in the front or with a cape structures covering the shoulders. We see this cap stiched structure also on a tight leather jacket. The key pieces of the collection and the most surprising were the voluminous ones, almost sculptural. At first we think combination of a vest and an add-on colar but in fact the volume was constructed in one piece. A puffy grey suit is tight waisted on a drapped skirt, the dresses gets some ruffles, on the collar or around the waist. The smoking is thight up with a leather belt in a very relax way.

Shop Rue du Mail by Martine Sitbon via Net-a-Porter.com

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Sonia Rykiel Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Sunday March 7th, 2010 – Halle Freyssinet – Paris

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Yohji Yamamoto Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Friday March 5th, 2010 – Lycee Carnot – Paris 17e

The saying ‘sometimes you need to take a step back to take two forward’ seems like sound advice, but for Yohji, he decided that one needs to go as far back as elementary school to be fashion forward. Even the backdrops for the show signaled that ‘Principal Yamamoto’ was about to give a powerful lesson in demure construction – invitations printed on school paper & a schoolyard would serve as a catwalk. Solemn school girls opened the show in a declination of navy school uniforms, coats and suits with knife-pleated skirts. As the show progressed, so too did the looks, maturing one look to the next, almost as if the school girls were graduating from their simple beginnings into adulthood.

Solemnity evolved into femininity, and the graduated school girl began wearing bustier dresses made of coarse, coat materials. Then came a mens shirt, worn as a peacoat dress followed by a navy blue knitwear jumpsuit worn with removable gloves.  Nearly every look was paired with flat black cavalier boots and some looks even sported sunglasses;  a teaser of new Yohji accessories to come. One black coat near the end had an interesting cookie-cutter-like crease sewn from the upper  shoulder down to the waistline that revealed itself to be a woman’s profile.

By the end, Yohji’s schoolgirl was no more, stepping into the next chapter of life as a bride. The stitched profile was incorporated into the bride’s black dress coat; her hair covered by a thin red filet veil topped by a miniature regal crown. At first, we were left wondering who would marry this dark princess, but a small smile at the end let us know that her groom could only be Mr. Optimism.

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Jean Paul Gaultier Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Saturday March 6th, 2010 – 325 rue Saint Martin 75003 – Paris

When people think of la femme française, it usually conjures up images of la dame blanche whose style aesthetics is often an extension of her culture’s deep, rich history. But for Jean Paul Gaultier’s fall 2010 collection, those clichés were thrown out of the window, as he showed that the contemporary frenchwoman’s aesthetic is born out of France’s new multicultural identity. From China to Mexico, Peru to Russia, South Africa to Brazil, this collection reflected France’s new identity through its smart, colorful use of exotic textures, patterns and prints. Never one to shy from playing with unconventional materials, JPG delivered an energetic show that felt like a fashion field trip on the Oriental Express.

A Masai metallic necklace under a leather perfecto with a Peruvian print skirt over a black Vichy print pants and geisha shoes looked effortlessly balanced and complimentary. Sportswear elements were experimented on, producing classic grey cotton sweatpants with balkan tapestry married to fur-collar trimmed and embroidered flower jackets. African print turbans served as contrasts to the signature JPG “pull marin” striped sweater. JPG favorite and more-than-fit-to-be-a-model Coco Rocha wore a chinese silk print dress under a peacoat with red cowboy boots while Frida Gustavsson wore her chinese silk top under a typical black Vichy french trench coat.

“Today’s world is about mixes” said a jubilant Jean Paul Gaultier to reporters backstage. Indeed, this latest collection showed that embracing the foreign can give way to the beautiful, that the new French glamour is greater than the sum of all its multiethnic parts, and that the genius of one intrepid couturier can sow the threads of cultural differences into an harmonious collection.

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Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2010 Fashion Show Handbags

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2010 Paris Press Day Video

Louis Vuitton Monogram Cheche Gypsy GM M40362

Louis Vuitton Monogram Denim Sunshine M93182

Louis Vuitton Raindrop Besace Moka M93188

Louis Vuitton Monogram Underground Duffle M40364

Louis Vuitton Monogram Cheche Bohemian M40359

Louis Vuitton New Age Traveller N90871

Louis Vuitton Monogram Denim Sunrise M93182

Louis Vuitton Monogram Denim Sunburst GM M93186

Louis Vuitton Monogram Nightbird Pochette M40374

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Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2010 Men’s Collection

Thursday January 21, 2010 – 104

Vienna’s Wiener Werkstätte in the early 20th century attracted a community of artists including Franz Kafka and Egon Schiele with their own creative way of mixing business and leisure style. For Louis Vuitton’s Fall-Winter 2010-2011 collection, Men’s Studio Director Paul Helbers, under the Artistic Direction of Marc Jacobs, is inspired by this “Bleisure” lifestyle, a mix of formality and comfort inspired by Vienna’s “artist wardrobe”.

“Kafka and Schiele favored very tailored, waisted clothes with short jackets and long coats,” says Helbers. “This collection is built on layering, but it is a precise interlocking. Each piece belongs to the whole and you can add or subtract to be more casual or representational. Fabrics are bonded to do without linings and coats unzip at the yoke to layer under other pieces. This suits travel and that is always a focus at Louis Vuitton, but also today’s laptop workplace which has blurred the boundaries between tailoring and casual pieces.”

The artistic life and architecture of Vienna inspire a palette of graphite, brown, raven blue, clay, forest, stone, praline, horn and nude accented by neon green.

The waist is underlined in mixed blacks for double-faced wool jackets with waterproof leather insets. The 3/4 coat is revisited in shearling and cashmere knit with silk satin sleeves. Collars contain slip-out hoods that unfold from the middle so that the leather and zip detailing remains a constructivist design element. Leather is waterproofed and constructed with taped seams for the high performance Techno Anorak, or sprayed rather than dyed so that cubist seaming stands out with a contrasting white edge. Waterproof, brushed and twisted tweeds have a snowy or paint-splattered look and give a sense of volume in very light weights. Luxury is inherent in cashmere blended with chinchilla, or mink, for jackets that are soft, and slightly hairy with a padded look. Shirts are tapered, or loose in a play of stripes: mismatched, geometric or in complex engineered prints. As a tribute to the prestigious equestrian Ecole Espagnole de Vienne, soft double-breasted blazer complement straight leg pants accessorized with zipped riding boots.

Vienna artistic life and equestrian tradition also inspire a new Louis Vuitton rich and extra soft premium calfskin. The leather is fully nourished by craftsmen with oils and natural wax to allow the bags to embellish with age. Either constructed entirely of leather or paired with a water-resistant taupe or charcoal canvas, the bags are inspired by military and utilitary vintage styles with a contemporary twist. The tote is the primary source of inspiration this season with leather handles and hardware from the iconic Louis Vuitton Steamer bag. German painter Christian Schoeler has hand painted three bags with landscapes, forests and clouds, an ode to Viennese art students who roam the streets with their customized bags.

Accessories for the “Bleisure” lifestyle combine a certain rusticity with techno details and elegant design. Army boot clogs are strapped, layered and studded while sleek patent laceups feature a new metallic wedge sole. Tangled leaves and painterly brush strokes are a romantic touch on devoré velvet scarves, and ties are structured in mock moiré or striped in bias welt weaves, or wet look metallics. Eyewear combines spectacle styling with state of the art construction with narrow branches to twist around the ear and clear plastic resin over the bridge.

Viennese artist Blinky Palermo whose work in the 60s centered on architectural illusions inspired the multiple wall set. And the soundtrack mixes techno, waltz, and opera from Holger Hiller to Elizabeth Schwarzkopf and Simple Minds with citations from Kafka.

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