Rick Owens Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Thursday March 4, 2010 – Palais de Chaillot

Rick Owens is one of the few designer’s whose work is easily recognizable. His unique esthetic has been reinterpreted in many young designer’s collections but none ever come close to the original. For his Fall 2010 collection, Rick presented an army of tribal nuns, “an army in a disciplined way” said the designer backstage. The designer took organic elements and draped it around the woman’s body. We imagine pre-historic lands around these tribal nuns but can just as easily imagine them in a futuristic jungle.

Albeit intended for winter, arms were exposed and hands were covered by lambskin gloves with fur trims. A circular brown rigid belt looked like a piece of wood while a similar black belt resembled sculptured lava.  Bicolor tights were paired with the brand’s signature boots, which were declined in open toe leather or crocodile. A knit sweater was incorporated into a metallic asymmetrical jacket while skirts were given texture through layering. Tops were pleated while ‘stitched geometric armor’ was added to reinforce the tribal inspiration. Handsome leather jackets were so desirable that we could overhear the models asking to keep them. Luigi Murenu created a sculptural hairstyle, with hair being pulled back, making it seem like a constant wind was blowing it back. Aaron de Mey’s striking dark eye patches makeup made the models appear as if they were part of a fashionable tribe, one we would love to join.

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Pictures & Video by J.T stylerumor.com
Angus Munro for AM Casting – Casting Director
Luigi Murenu – Hair Stylist
Aaron de Mey – Makeup Artist
Noah Shelley for AM Casting – Casting Director

Sharon Wauchob Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Thursday March 3, 2010 – Ecole Des Beaux Arts – Salle Melpomène

For the Fall 2010 Sharon Wauchob explored a  “new kind of minimalism” . The designer worked on raw material such has leather, she beautifuly weaved it, braid it  and even laser-cut it. The Black leather laser-cut dresses looked like shiny lacered paper, revealing just enough to remind us that she loves feminity.The Tailored jackets didn’t have any buttons, sometimes an assymetric zipper, some of them were bi-material with mock alligator or fur trim. All the look features leather open tow guetres boots, which are predicted to be a huge hit next season. Sharon also played with dry wool and constructed a series of amazing coats.  The black dresses  were followed by kaki green looks, mixed with caramel or paprika. Using the same paper cut laser effect on hand-dyed silk dresses Wauchob showed that non only she can play with color but can also presents some prints without breaking the collection flow.

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Sharon Wauchob Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show video

Cerruti Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 10, 2010 – Halle Freyssinet

Cerruti new artistic director Richard Nicoll, presented his vision of the new Cerruti woman. The lines are simple, almost androgyne. Colorwise we see cranberry shades, petrol, an orange and blue print, a pink powder latex dress toward the end and even mohair.  The PDG of the brand Florent Perrichon, seems to be confident on where the brand is going, describing Richard Nicoll of being the men of the situation.

Cerruti Fall Winter 2010 Final Fashion Show Video

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Rue du Mail Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 3, 2010 – 5 rue du Mail

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Sonia Rykiel Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Sunday March 7th, 2010 – Halle Freyssinet – Paris

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Versus Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Sunday February 28th, 2010 – Piazza Vetra, 1 – Milano

Versus has always been a fresher softer and younger oriented Versace version. The second collection codesigned by Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane showed this younger, fresher look, with a sexy vibe but not as much as on Versace Collection, where the sex appeal is the center of attention. Christopher and Donatella selected some Bruce Weber 90′s ad campaign shots for Versace to be features on the tee shirts and bags. Dresses are constructed bustier with pleated stiff skirt, youngfull satin and velvet are draped. The designer duo have been successfull to maintain the Versus spirit created by Gianni Versace for the younger crowd.

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Missoni Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Sunday February 28th, 2010 – via Festa del Perdono, 7 – Milano

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Proenza Schouler Fall Winter 2010 Hair & Makeup

Wednesday February 17th, 2010 – Milk Studio

For Fall 2010 Proenza Schouler show continued the surfer-girl theme started last season, but this time she was a bit darker and moodier. As Frederic Fekkai‘s hairstylist Didier Malige put it, “Now she’s spending less time in the water and more time surfing the streets”. To create the “urban surfer” hair, Malige prepped the hair with Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel, then spritzed on Fekkai Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray. He used Fekkai Coiff Magnifique Ultra-Light Finishing Crème to define the ends. The result: a wavy texture that was slightly dry and static-y. Off the runway, Malige recommends applying the products to damp hair, running your fingers through it, then rough-drying while twisting small sections with your fingers to encourage waves that look loose.

“The makeup is based on fashion photos of model Kristen McMenamy from the early ’90s, when they’d show her with pale skin and super-dark lips. To bring the look up to date, we’re focusing on making the skin tone look even and filling in the brows—just making sure the face looks done,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal. “If the rest of the face was bare, this would come across as more of a raw look. But we want it to be healthy and pulled-together with this rich, dark lip.”

On the skin, Kendal applied M.A.C. Studio Fix Foundation and M.A.C Blot Powder for a polished (but not heavy matte) look.

The lips were the focal point: On the brunette models, Kendal applied M.A.C. Pro Lipstick in Charred Red, a matte deep crimson lipstick that she made even darker by topping it with black powder). On the blonde models, Kendal went with M.A.C. Pro Lipstick in Smoked Purple, a matte deep eggplant shade. The reason for the two different lipsticks? Simply because “the red looks a bit cheap on the blondes,” she told us backstage.

For the eyes, Kendal blended M.A.C. Cream Colour Base in Dark Brown under the bottom lashes, in the crease of the lid, and along the top lash line. She then patted a sheer super-shiny gloss on the lids for sheet, skipping liner and mascara.

GET THE LOOK – MAKEUP: All products by Mac Cosmetics. Diane Kendal brushed Dark Brown Cream Colour Base under and around the eyes, as well as in the crease and on top of the lash line. On skin, she used Studio Fix where needed, and Blot Powder to set and keep skin matte. She also applied NC 50 Studio Finish Concealer on cheek bones to contour. Blonde models received Smoked Purple Lipstick on lips, while brunettes got Charred Red mixed with Carbon Eye Shadow. Kendal made lip color deeper in the center and faded the edges.

GET THE LOOK – HAIR: All products by Frédéric Fekkai. Malige used Coiff Océanique Tousled Wave Spray for texture and Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel to add height.

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