Gucci Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Saturday February 27th, 2010 – Piazza Oberdan – Milan

For this upcoming Fall collection, Frida Giannini’s inspiration came from Gucci’s Golden years, circa 70’s and 90’s. Pushing the glamour envelope wide open, Giannini showed the new Gucci girl dressed to the 9’s in the house’s DNA.

With a careful eye toward detail and modernity, each piece reflected the “sur mesure” originality and the artisanal know how that Gucci has always been known for. Oversized and deconstructed cashmere coats, plays on trenchcoats reinterpreted as dresses, and even some signs of skin just in time for winter, the Gucci woman is as sensual as she has ever been.

For Frida, ‘La Dona Gucci’ wears a light multicolor fox vest, a camel coat with a removable mink knit and even a Zibeline vest interlaced with suede. Unique patchworks of precious skins made of ostrich, suede, and leather are all nods to the house’s time-honored craftsmanship skills with exotic materials.

Evening-wear were inspired by a cool, controlled opulence. Chantilly laced dresses were transformed into a lustful beauty, giving off an almost fetish austerity, through the delicate use of python prints. Vinyl sequined pieces had an almost 3D effect and are elevated to a plateau of greater eye candy through an intricate use of ostrich feathers. Shoulders with sequins or ostrich feather, lace tights and crocodile sandals completed the look.

Taking cues from the House Of Gucci archives, Frida added a 1973 metallic iconic design to the new line of bags, as was seen on the miniature bags with a long gold chains, supple ostrich bags and evening pouches. Extravagant crocodile details could be seen on travel-inspired bags, shoes, patent leather and metallic platforms. The original ‘diamante’ motif makes a welcome reappearance on bags, re-infusing the accessories line with the Casa’s core traditions. The gold bracelets and necklaces framed the Gucci silhouette and seemed naturally at home amidst all the leather elements. “Frida Giannini delivered once again a collection that reflected Gucci tradition and modernity” François Henri Pinault confessed recently to ELLE France, adding  that “There is an inexplicable relation between the success of a brand and its designer. This is the case for Frida, she is the femme Gucci”.

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Gucci Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show Video

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Proenza Schouler Fall Winter 2010 Hair & Makeup

Wednesday February 17th, 2010 – Milk Studio

For Fall 2010 Proenza Schouler show continued the surfer-girl theme started last season, but this time she was a bit darker and moodier. As Frederic Fekkai‘s hairstylist Didier Malige put it, “Now she’s spending less time in the water and more time surfing the streets”. To create the “urban surfer” hair, Malige prepped the hair with Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel, then spritzed on Fekkai Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray. He used Fekkai Coiff Magnifique Ultra-Light Finishing Crème to define the ends. The result: a wavy texture that was slightly dry and static-y. Off the runway, Malige recommends applying the products to damp hair, running your fingers through it, then rough-drying while twisting small sections with your fingers to encourage waves that look loose.

“The makeup is based on fashion photos of model Kristen McMenamy from the early ’90s, when they’d show her with pale skin and super-dark lips. To bring the look up to date, we’re focusing on making the skin tone look even and filling in the brows—just making sure the face looks done,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal. “If the rest of the face was bare, this would come across as more of a raw look. But we want it to be healthy and pulled-together with this rich, dark lip.”

On the skin, Kendal applied M.A.C. Studio Fix Foundation and M.A.C Blot Powder for a polished (but not heavy matte) look.

The lips were the focal point: On the brunette models, Kendal applied M.A.C. Pro Lipstick in Charred Red, a matte deep crimson lipstick that she made even darker by topping it with black powder). On the blonde models, Kendal went with M.A.C. Pro Lipstick in Smoked Purple, a matte deep eggplant shade. The reason for the two different lipsticks? Simply because “the red looks a bit cheap on the blondes,” she told us backstage.

For the eyes, Kendal blended M.A.C. Cream Colour Base in Dark Brown under the bottom lashes, in the crease of the lid, and along the top lash line. She then patted a sheer super-shiny gloss on the lids for sheet, skipping liner and mascara.

GET THE LOOK – MAKEUP: All products by Mac Cosmetics. Diane Kendal brushed Dark Brown Cream Colour Base under and around the eyes, as well as in the crease and on top of the lash line. On skin, she used Studio Fix where needed, and Blot Powder to set and keep skin matte. She also applied NC 50 Studio Finish Concealer on cheek bones to contour. Blonde models received Smoked Purple Lipstick on lips, while brunettes got Charred Red mixed with Carbon Eye Shadow. Kendal made lip color deeper in the center and faded the edges.

GET THE LOOK – HAIR: All products by Frédéric Fekkai. Malige used Coiff Océanique Tousled Wave Spray for texture and Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel to add height.

See our pictures below:

Alexander Wang Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Saturday February 13th, 2010 – Pier 94

In only five years, 26 years old Alexander Wang has become one of the most talked about designer at the New York Fashion Week.

Wang’s show took place for the second season at the “far from Bryant Park” gigantic Pier 94 facing the Hudson River. After having re-interpreted the American Sportwear for its Spring Summer 2010 show, Alexander Wang showed a menswear Wall Street inspired collection and tight to the body tailored clothes. Wang took traditional wall street banker looks deconstructed them to give a dark and sexy line.

It was “about growing up, about progress” Wang said before the show “but it’s the same girl, she is just evolving”.

The jacket men suit becomes a tight beloro, some jacket are sleveless, the smokings are made of velvet covered by Swarovski Crystals. Thick ribbed thigh-high legwarmers are worn over tight pants and covering the shoes . One of the most acclamed accessory was the backpack matching the stripped flannel suit worn by Natalia Vodianova. Suprisingly the most tailored pieces kept this street look for what Alexander Wang is known for.

Alexander Wang has achieved something than no designer done before, which is offering a product that is very avant garde, sought after but at a very attractive price point.

On Saturday February 13th, New Yorkers had the opportunity to watch the Alexander Wang Fall 2010 Show live at Times Square on a giant screen. The show was also live via ShowStudio.com

Alexander wang reports 27 million of dollars for 2009 (12 millions on 2008) and project 40 millions of dollars for the coming year. A NYC Alexander Wang store is set to open in September 2010.

Shop Alexander Wang via NET-A-PORTER.COM, LuisaViaRoma.com, Shopbop.com and Nordstrom.com

See our pictures below:

Alexander Wang F/W 10
Stylist: Karl Templer
Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Diane Kendal
Casting: Anita Bitton for The Establishment

Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 2010 Collection

Friday October 2, 2009 – 155 rue Saint-Martin Paris 3eme

Feathers as eyebrows above bright squares of red, Blue, green around the eyes. Yohji Yamamoto present a rock n’roll Geisha for his Spring Summer 2010 Collection.

Deconstructed jacket to the point that it becomes a long sleeve bustier, the classic white shirt is deconstructed as a bustier as well. We saw some tight biker jackets with puffy shoulder, another one with short sleeve, worn on a leather mini skirt with an asymetrical pleated cotton side.

Many of the models were wearing biker gloves. The shoes were lace’s up classic “Yohji” but with a three inch heels, or lace’s up three inches wedge. Metallic details at the extremity of the shoes, sometimes worn with a pair of gym guetres . A black tight vest with puffy shoulder was worn with a long skirt which had a cut up from the top of the leg revealing a jarretiere, with studs.

All the clothes were very feminine, revealing the women’s body which is usually not the case in Yohji Yamamoto Collections. During summertime it’s hot so the long to the ground shirt dress (with puffy shoulder) is worn with a pair of black short shorts, accessorized with a punk stud cuff.

The last part of the show was surprising, first came a couple of black and white looks with holes in fabrics followed by a series of models wearing what we would think at first to be a classic liberty print.

It was a liberty print with small red, lemon and blue flowers, but it has holes all over it. It added even more romantism to the collection.

Shop the Yohji Yamamoto Fall Winter 2009 Collection at Yoox.com

See our pictures below:

Chanel Paris Venice Cruise 2010 Collection

5 years ago Karl Lagerfeld decided to take the Chanel Pre-Collections to another level by showing these collections the way it deserved to be shown. The idea was to give the collections a ‘travel spirit’, beginning with Paris Tokyo for the Pre-Fall 2005 collection.

After showing past Cruise collections in New York’s Grand Central Station, Santa Monica, and Miami from 2006-09 respectively, Karl transported us to Venice to discover more than just a collection.

On May 15th, 2009,  Karl brought the house of Chanel to Venice to present its Cruise 2010 collection at the venerable and exclusive Lido beach Hotel Excelsior. Karl  is not shy to draw inspiratation from Venetian and Baroque styles, as was seen in past seasons such as the Haute Couture F/W ’90 and ’93 collections.

More importantly, Venice was an inspiration for Gabrielle Chanel, whom in love with all that this unique city has to offer: museums, somptuous churches. She was particularly seduced by the Byzantine gold adorning Saint Mark’s Basilica.

Characterizing the city’s essence and infusing it into Chanel elegance, Karl Lagerfeld truly delivered on a promise of a Paris meets Venice collection. Venetian masquearde masks modernized with a pair of Chanel sunglasses, while Carnaval harlequin prints and ‘voile‘ lions printed dresses. The lion the symbol of Venice and Mademoiselle’s birth sign. The Lion of Saint Mark is the emblem and the protector of Venice. Lions are everywhere in the cientrance to the Arsenal, on the Porta della Carta.

Looking at this collection, one cannot help but feel that this Paris-Venice show continued a conversation that Karl started with the Paris Moscou Fall 08/09 Collection . It’s as if thought Karl Lagerfeld wanted to share more of Gabrielle Chanel’s history to make us better understand her inspiration and her choices.

We have the same impression watching this new collection inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s travels in the 30′s.  Lagerfeld’s collection recalls Visconti’s stylised films and Venice’s sparkling society of the 1930s. Fabrics were inspired by the rich Venetian reds of the Renaissance, Fortuny’s prints, and the chiaroscuro technique of the great Italian masters.

A “Who’s Who” of international press made it to the event, such as French Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld and Emmanuelle Alt, Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani, Jefferson Hack and Model Anouck Lepere among others.

Venetians such as the Countess Brandino Brandolini and the Count and Countess Luca Marzotto were also Karl Lagerfeld’s guests.

Celebrities such as Rinko Kikuchi, Vittoria Puccini, Olivia Magnani, Caroline Sieber, Kasia Smutniak also trekked out to see the collection on the cool Venetian sands.

French actress and Chanel “ambassadoress” Anna Mouglalis was wearing a beige dress from Paris-Moscow 2008/9 collection with spectacular Chanel Fine jewelry “Franges” earrings  in white gold 18 karat and 82 diamonds.

Kasia Smutniak was wearing a classic little black dress from the RTW Spring Summer 2009 collection.

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Pictures Copyright : © Chanel
Obligatory Caption : © Chanel

Carine Roitfeld CNN Revealed Part Three

Carine Roitfeld CNN Revealed Part Two

Carine Roitfeld CNN Revealed Part One

Paul & Joe Fall Winter 2009 Collection

Paul & Joe Fall Winter 2009 2010 Fashion Show Video

Wednesday March 11th, 2009 – Carrousel du Louvre – Salle Le Nôtre

“Les pièces clés from this collection are definitely the high, tight boots. You can wear them pleated or even squished. Every girl needs a great pair of boots for the Fall!” exclaimed Paul & Joe designer, Sophie Albou, backstage. Pulling aside one of the models before she changes out of her clothing, a beaming Sophie explained, “Everything in the collection is wearable and mixable. You can take this coat, this skirt and this top, and the result is amazing, even if it’s not from the same look.”

This season’s collection captivated us with its modern take on the Parisienne, balancing sexy, sophisticated looks while embodying a jovial, dynamic spirit. Keeping true to Paul & Joe’s roots, the audience needed little convincing in order to see themselves in the clothing: something that many buyers feel will greatly help to push the clothing from the store rack and into client closets.

Mixing sequin dresses with biker boots, grey dresses with expanded, unpadded shoulders, and leather wrap dresses with padded shoulders, Sophie signaled that Fall ’09 was all about dressing comfortably chic. Mini dresses with embroidered military shoulders (our favorite), Jodhpurs and even grey vintage fur coat (a nod to Sophie’s mother) add tinges of retro 80’s chic to the collection.

Some looks even sported beautiful glasses, hinting at Paul & Joe’s upcoming eyewear line that will be available in a couple of weeks.

The front row was filled up by Paris Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld, French actress Emmanuelle Beart and Karine Viard.

For the final passage, Sophie Albou ebulliently strutted the catwalk, “a la Gianni Versace” with models Angela Lindvall, Isabeli Fontana, Eniko Mihalik, Maryna Linchuk and Carmen Kass.

Click below to see some our favorite looks:

Shop the Paul & Joe Fall Winter 2009 Collection on Net-A-Porter.com

Get one of the hottest Paul & Joe Fall 09 look, the Paul & Joe’s black sequined mesh strapless dress worn by Angela Lindvall, is simply party perfection. Dazzle after-dark and pair this sparkling soiree style with a power-shoulder blazer and soaring heels.

See our video at the top and the pictures below:

Balmain Fall Winter 2009 Collection

Thursday March 5th 2009 – Paris – Hotel Ritz – 3 pm

Apparently Christophe Decarnin isn’t reading the latest retail financial reports; why should he, since Balmain‘s cut out jeans & military jackets are nearly sold out everywhere, every season. And that’s certainly enough impetus for Christophe to deliver a strong Fall collection, cherry picking inspirations from other designer’s gardens, Leather Quilted Dress with Metallic Chain (Chanel) , Tee Shirt Marin (Jean Paul Gaultier’s signature), Multi Strap Ankle Boots (Louis Vuitton Extreme Ankle Boots Fall 2006), Slouchy Sequins dresses (Alexander Wang Spring 2009), Sequins pants (Thakoon fall 2009), Black satin Bustier Cocktail Dress With Traine (Ungaro), Bow Tops (Alexis Mabille).

Heads were certainly turning on the catwalk as editors chimed in about the collection post-show. “Was this collection a luxurious Zara collection?” mentioned one bold fashion editor. Still, Balmain knows what its customers want and they certainly delivered a collection that was still imbued with the rock-glam couture clients have come to love. And while it may be a more commercial collection, which girl wouldn’t want to wear sequins dresses and own a pair of multistrap ankle boots.

We were happy to see Eva Herzigova, Carmen Kaas and Erin Wasson who told us than Alexander Wang was in town for business and a little fête in his honour chez Colette . Carine Roitfeld was carrying the new Louis Vuitton’s Sofia Coppola Suede Pochette. Julia Restoin Roifeld sported Alexander Wang with a white deconstructed fur jacket on Marc Jacobs black shorts.

Shop Balmain via Net-a-Porter.com

See our pictures below:

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