Yves Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2009 Collection

Monday March 9th, 2009 – Palais De Tokyo

“Calme, Luxe and Volupte” these three words can describe the Yves Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2009 Show at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris.

As soon as I arrived I noticed that it won’t be the overcrowded usual runway, the show took place on the first floor of the main entrance of the Palais de Tokyo featuring a giant YSL sign. Giant mirrors were placed in each corner of the square space. I see Catherine Deneuve, Loulou De la Falaise along with Betty Catroux, all YSL’s muses are here.

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Claudia Schiffer chatting with Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier. Carine Roitfeld was filming the last part of  her CNN Revealed documentary, Kanye West with Amber Rose posing while Rachel Zoe confessed it was her first YSL show.

The collection started with Alice Coltrane Turiya and Ramakrishna’s composition in the background.

The make up is diaphane, veloute, red lipstick. The hair is silky pulled up in chignon wrapped in leather, Yves Saint Laurent’s spirit is along us.

The first look was presented by Alla Kostromicheva wearing a leather trench with a perfecto stucture, after a couple of looks I saw that all the YSL’s code have been perfectly re-interpreted by Sefano Pilati. Black leather, gray flannel, white blouse and mutliple variations of  Le Smoking.

Long Smoking vest as a dress, Smoking Pantacourt suit, one piece Smoking suit … the skirts and the pants are high waist with a rounded top. Black leather gloves topped by black bangles.

Caroline Trentini was YSL’s exclusive for this Paris Fashion Week and she blow everyone away wearing a black leather one piece zippered body suit, if there was be a Parisian Wonder Woman it would be her.

The jackets have expanded unpaded shoulders.

The collection was a succession of YSL references all wearable all simple, all desirable.

Shop the YSL Fall Winter 2009 Collection’ on Net-A-Porter.com

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Barbara Bui Fall Winter 2009 Collection

March 10, 2009

Barbara Bui worked a hardcore rock ’n’ roll vibe for fall — a little Jim Morrison, a lot of Los Angeles new age glam — with everything from metallic python pants and leather jackets that had zippered breakaway hems to studded cowboy boots and bags galore. With an underground biker vibe, sans the pretentiousness associated with the genre, the overall effect was thrilling and palatable.

Jeremy Scott Fall Winter 2009 Collection

March 10, 2009

Always a Paris favourite for its light-hearted approach to fashion, Jeremy Scott’s irreverent collection was inspired by a famous Disney rodent. A white coat crafted from Mickey Mouse gloves and a poufy printed bustier dress were stand-out highlights. When the attention wasn’t solely on the collection’s pieces, they were on the front row, which saw the likes of Peaches Geldof and Cory Kennedy eyeing pieces they would love to take home that day.

Emanuel Ungaro Fall Winter 2009 Collection

Sunday March 08 2009 – Carrousel du Louvre – Salle Le Nôtre

Third time was the charm. After struggling to connect with the Emanuel Ungaro legacy, Esteban Cortazar has come up with a Fall collection that not only stayed true to the house founder’s go-go eighties joie de vivre, but at the same time proved he’s keyed in to what the nightclub set likes to wear now. That would be a fits-like-a-glove draped-and-wrapped strapless dress with bold tights and sky-high heels. His little party frocks came every which way: color-blocked in shades of royal blue, orange, and fuchsia; in multicolored polka dots; and beruffled in Ungaro pink and black. Sometimes Cortazar tossed on a stamped black leather motorcycle jacket and a very French silk scarf around the model’s neck; other times it was a cropped and cutaway blazer in a menswear plaid.

On the tailored side, a blue leather jacket and high-waisted satin pants with fanlike pockets on the hips could be contenders for party types who’ve aged out of microminis. Only the knits—bulky and not nearly as expensive-looking as the price tags will demand—fell flat. Overall, too, the show could’ve used a tighter edit, but that’s something that Cortazar can get the hang of now that he’s figured out his raison d’être.

Shop the Emanuel Ungaro Fall Winter 2009 Collection on Net-A-Porter.com

Fashion News 03/03/09 Balmain Thrives & More

Balmain’s $1,500 jeans have sold out in London, which is pretty much the story with the brand this season…

Roksanda Ilincic is poised to launch a capsule collection with lingerie brand Damaris later this month.

Etro’s Fall 2009 collection was made up of recycled fabrics from the house’s archives.

Jourdan Dunn is London Fashion Week’s top model, having walked in a total of 14 shows.

Pre-Fall 2009: Alexander Wang, Michael Kors, Versace, and more

Pre-fall is anything but basic as designers play with lively graphic elements, from mesmerizing prints to rich jacquards.

Lovely Leggings Leads To Strong Fall Showing

After a strong showing on the fall runways in New York and Europe, designers and retailers continue to be passionate about legwear — and their optimism extends all the way into the holiday season.

Color is a primary trend on which retailers are betting big.

“Our biggest legwear story is all about color and texture,” said Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel. “Two designers who expressed it best were Proenza Schouler in New York and Bottega Veneta in Milan. I loved the playing with tonalities of color at Bottega [Veneta] — there’s nothing more lean-looking than head-to-toe one color. Proenza [Schouler] took a more whimsical approach. It was very fresh — a burgundy leg against navy — playing within those color families was new. At the end of the day, what the consumer needs to know is that it’s more of a tonal story, whether playing within tones of the same family or playing ‘matchy-matchy.’”

Watson said the specialty store increased its legwear buys for the fall season and is “double exposing it in lingerie and amongst ready-to-wear” so customers can see their head-to-toe wardrobes in one place.

Heavy knits are also another style to watch this fall. Brands as different as Tibi and Rodarte both showed chunky textured legwear. At Tibi, designer Amy Smilovic sent down layered pieces, namely wool thigh-highs slouched over herringbone tights, while Rodarte presented open-weaved ripped-styled tights.

“Texture for us looks great,” said Watson. “Even lace came down the ready-to-wear runway and lace hosiery makes legwear feminine. It’s an easy way to incorporate the lace trend into a wardrobe. The other thing about texture we’re seeing is the continuation of ribbed — it’s texture without bulk.”

While metallic handbags have long been a trend in accessories, sparkly, shiny hose is consistently a popular holiday season look.

Tony Taylor, whose Look from London legwear firm partnered with Anna Sui on her collection, said, “We always do metallic for fall because it runs into holiday and works so well. Anna [Sui] puts glam back center stage all over again.”

Perhaps one of the biggest trends for fall is reminiscent of the days of the Eighties power suit. The sheer leg is back, and such shows as Hervé Léger, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang embraced the sexy, sheer leg in shades of purple, navy and black.

DVF RTW Fall 2008: From Berlin, to Shanghai, to New York, with Love

Diane von Furstenberg may be famous for her effortless dresses, but there’s more to her repertoire than fab frocks. And she proved it with the stylish fall collection she showed on Sunday, which centered on a vagabond heroine in polished, Marlene Dietrich-influenced looks. Here, a combination of the sporty and the feminine: a twinset belted over soft layers of chiffon.

Feminine with a hint of retro — that’s what triumphed on the fall runways, with smart blazers, full skirts and some drop-dead dresses.

Diane von Furstenberg: “She always knew she would find her way through the raindrops.” So Diane von Furstenberg mused in her program notes of this season’s heroine, a mysterious sort whose travels take her from Berlin to New York by way of Shanghai with a Forties attitude and plenty of style.

Of course, the real heroine of any von Furstenberg saga is DVF herself, whose innate survival instinct has always informed her when it’s time to adjust course. Having carved out a well-known place for herself as the go-to goddess of modern, sexy dresses, von Furstenberg typically celebrates that angle on her runway, as was the case with last season’s oh-so-tropical romp. Yet life, as they say, is not always a beach, and so, for fall, she made it very clear that she’s got those more serious moments covered, too.

Courtesy: WWD

Alexander Wang Ready-to-Wear Fall 2008

Alexander Wang’s got the hype, the retail presence and even his own celebrity stylist, model Erin Wasson. But the young designer has to show he’s more than just a flash in the pan. Enter a high-energy fall collection that was certainly a step in the right direction. Wang has a consistent vision and a strong sense of his customer, who’s a little bit gritty and molto street chic. She can pull off his trompe l’oeil silk cargo pants — made to look like trousers worn low over boxers à la K-Fed — and wear his roomy blazers, ripped denim and off-kilter tanks with a just-got-out-of-bed confidence. And she’ll toss the pretty “It” tote aside for his leather clutch, inspired by a men’s toiletry bag. But Wang has to fine-tune that message, because his dressed-down vibe hewed too closely to those of others, like Marc Jacobs’ neo-grunge affair of ‘06.

 

 

Courtesy: ELLE,  WWD

Diane von Furstenberg RTW Fall 2008

“She always knew she would find her way through the raindrops.” So Diane von Furstenberg mused in her program notes of this season’s heroine, a mysterious sort whose travels take her from Berlin to New York by way of Shanghai with a Forties attitude and plenty of style. 

Of course, the real heroine of any von Furstenberg saga is DVF herself, whose innate survival instinct has always informed her when it’s time to adjust course. Having carved out a well-known place for herself as the go-to goddess of modern, sexy dresses, von Furstenberg typically celebrates that angle on her runway, as was the case with last season’s oh-so-tropical romp. Yet life, as they say, is not always a beach, and so, for fall, she made it very clear that she’s got those more serious moments covered, too. 

As for her vagabond femme fatale, this woman revels in a Dietrich fixation with a strong, polished aura that starts with a coat or jacket, or both, belted over layers beneath. This allowed von Furstenberg the chance to flaunt her way with sportswear, and to show off those delightful girly dresses in a different context. The former was strong on terrific sweaters and Marlene-worthy languid trousers; the latter bore a bit of “Atonement” romance, although a frothed-up dress under a graphic jacquard jacket looked more indulgently Sally Bowles. 

Evening went two ways. There were moments of Asian-inspired grandeur in curvaceous gowns, such as one with an exotic vine print. But elegance gave way to sauce in flapper-esque dresses worked with sequins and beads, just right for the girl who wants to shimmy till dawn.

Courtesy: WWD, DVF.com