Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2011 Men’s Collection

Thursday July 24th, 2010 – 325 rue Saint Martin – Paris 3eme

We were in Paris but inside the Jean Paul Gaultier Headquarters it was a totally different atmosphere, North African music, Morrocan leather puff on the floor and a hamman as the runway backdrop. From the begining it was clear that the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2011 Men’s show was a tribute to Yves Saint Laurent who was a Marrakech lover. A Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux look-alikes walked down the runway as a couple wearing the iconic YSL lace up Safari tunic. But that wasn’t the only reference to the genius designer, through the collection Gaultier added YSL iconic details, the YSL spirit was there.

Gaultier, a longtime Marrakesh lover as well, reinterpreted North African traditional clothes and accessories such as the Djellabas (loose-fitting Moroccan robes) which he transformed to a neo “YSL Smoking” Dejlaba inspired. The harem pants become luxurious in total leather with matching saharien lace up tunic and also in an aerien linen fabric perfect for the summer. The national traditional sleeper “the babouche” gets a makeover and apears to be the lovechild between a babouche and a derby dress shoes while sneakers are open toe. Effortless well fitted pants are paint spray degrade and the cheche scarf  makes its come back. Every seasons Gaultier takes ethnic inspirations and twist them up in such a modern way, adding sensuality to the mix.

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Photos: JT stylerumor.com

Video: JT stylerumor.com

Makeup: Carol Colombiani @ L’atelier (68)

Hair: Delphine Courteille @ L’atelier (68)

Musique: Mode-F

Rick Owens Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Thursday March 4, 2010 – Palais de Chaillot

Rick Owens is one of the few designer’s whose work is easily recognizable. His unique esthetic has been reinterpreted in many young designer’s collections but none ever come close to the original. For his Fall 2010 collection, Rick presented an army of tribal nuns, “an army in a disciplined way” said the designer backstage. The designer took organic elements and draped it around the woman’s body. We imagine pre-historic lands around these tribal nuns but can just as easily imagine them in a futuristic jungle.

Albeit intended for winter, arms were exposed and hands were covered by lambskin gloves with fur trims. A circular brown rigid belt looked like a piece of wood while a similar black belt resembled sculptured lava.  Bicolor tights were paired with the brand’s signature boots, which were declined in open toe leather or crocodile. A knit sweater was incorporated into a metallic asymmetrical jacket while skirts were given texture through layering. Tops were pleated while ‘stitched geometric armor’ was added to reinforce the tribal inspiration. Handsome leather jackets were so desirable that we could overhear the models asking to keep them. Luigi Murenu created a sculptural hairstyle, with hair being pulled back, making it seem like a constant wind was blowing it back. Aaron de Mey’s striking dark eye patches makeup made the models appear as if they were part of a fashionable tribe, one we would love to join.

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Pictures & Video by J.T stylerumor.com
Angus Munro for AM Casting – Casting Director
Luigi Murenu – Hair Stylist
Aaron de Mey – Makeup Artist
Noah Shelley for AM Casting – Casting Director

Sharon Wauchob Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Thursday March 3, 2010 – Ecole Des Beaux Arts – Salle Melpomène

For the Fall 2010 Sharon Wauchob explored a  “new kind of minimalism” . The designer worked on raw material such has leather, she beautifuly weaved it, braid it  and even laser-cut it. The Black leather laser-cut dresses looked like shiny lacered paper, revealing just enough to remind us that she loves feminity.The Tailored jackets didn’t have any buttons, sometimes an assymetric zipper, some of them were bi-material with mock alligator or fur trim. All the look features leather open tow guetres boots, which are predicted to be a huge hit next season. Sharon also played with dry wool and constructed a series of amazing coats.  The black dresses  were followed by kaki green looks, mixed with caramel or paprika. Using the same paper cut laser effect on hand-dyed silk dresses Wauchob showed that non only she can play with color but can also presents some prints without breaking the collection flow.

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Sharon Wauchob Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show video

Giambattista Valli Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Monday March 8, 2010 – 7 Place Vendome – Paris 1er

Giambattista Valli’s client-list looks like a Who’ Who directory of the jet-set and royalty. Remaining faithful to that lifestyle, Valli flirted with 60’s inspirations for his Fall 2011 collection. Motivated by the theme of love (as was clearly stated on the backstage inspiration board), Valli designed pieces infatuated with the feminine silhouette. Showing a variety of looks, including day wear, the Giambattista girl could be seen in Aspen peaks in a long quilted coat or be snug in a beige caped topcoat as she takes an autumn afternoon stroll though Central Park.  Some Jackie O dresses looked Oval Office ready for a certain Mrs. Michelle Obama. There were also some unexpected transparencies and details that popped up here and there, like with a couple of dresses that revealed model’s panties or cocktail dresses that bordered on being Haute Couture. In the latter, the finishes were delicate, precise, and handcrafted with sequins, pearls and embroideries. The final gowns included a complete see-through dress topped with ruffles, while a dramatic black mermaid dress closed the show.

When a journalist backstage asked Valli about the production process for certain elaborate dresses, a GV spokeswoman said some of the looks were almost couture and will be made-to-order. “There is a modern classic balance in Giambattista’s clothes, they’re timeless” pointed out Anna Della Russo to another reporter.

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Giambattista Valli Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show video

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Makeup by Val Garland

Damir Doma Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 3, 2010 – Lycee Henri IV

After presenting his Fall 2010 men’s collection in january, Damir Doma unveiled his first women’s collection during Paris Fashion Week. We saw some folded jackets, long voluminous wool coats, cashmere in the shade of greys. The colour palette merges from dirty green, chocolate, midnight blue and black reflecting Doma’s vision. The designer offers a new perspective on womenswear with new shapes and volume with a shearling hooded coat. Not all the looks were androgyn, Damir surprised with a see through combi-short and a revealing jumpsuit. The Damir Doma woman is coming from another era with a sensitivity and strong modern character at the same time. His signature silhouettes are omnipresent while flowing jersey, washed silks and the softest cashmeres express the collection puristic approach.

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Damir Doma Fall Winter 2010 Final Fashion Show Video

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Valentino Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Tuesday March 9th, 2010- Halle Freyssinet

Digital romanticism. Noir innocence. A refined women, who is also unpredictable, elusive, evasive, overflowing with mystery. Candid and dark. Providing inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli’s creative works for Valentino. A natural instinct of creatingm selecting, mixing and layering all different elements is emphasized and highlighted throughout the pret-a-porter Autumn Winter 2010 – 2011 collection.

Reconsideration and reinvention of elegance, altered into a contemporary mode. This newfound quality is now regained and reconquered to exist in the Valentino woman’s wardrobe.

Fovoring unexpected liaisons between natural and technological weaving, ultra light and structured material, padded, doubled and treated fabric. Ensemble of researched pieces including shirts, knits, over the knee skirts and pants are never deprived of desinged lengths, constructions and proportions that harmoniously coexist. Coats, overcoats and jackets are made with straight or slightly flared cuts. Combinations of fluid and supported structures are plastic and freestanding, made of silk crepe, goretex, organza or chiffon.

Ballerinas and stilletos are embellished and made aggressive by exasperated tips and unusual stud applications borrowed from luggage details. Structured and rigid bags persistently echo exclusive designs and finishing.

Everything perfectly joining together with imaginary scenes and the rhythmic direction of American film director Kenneth Anger, who was involved with Chiuri and Piccioli in the conception of the Fall Winter 2010 Valentino show atmosphere.

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Valentino Fall Winter 2010 Final Fashion Show Video

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Cerruti Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 10, 2010 – Halle Freyssinet

Cerruti new artistic director Richard Nicoll, presented his vision of the new Cerruti woman. The lines are simple, almost androgyne. Colorwise we see cranberry shades, petrol, an orange and blue print, a pink powder latex dress toward the end and even mohair.  The PDG of the brand Florent Perrichon, seems to be confident on where the brand is going, describing Richard Nicoll of being the men of the situation.

Cerruti Fall Winter 2010 Final Fashion Show Video

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Junko Shimada Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Tuesday March 9th, 2010 – Hotel Westin – Salon Imperial

Junko Shimada with “Une belle Fille” tells us another story, inpired by actress Virna Lisi. We’re at the Hotel Westin in the Salon Imperial, lights are on the floor, music that sounds like a 70′s french movie in the background. Lambskin Leather turban, Fuschia, indian pink and vermillon rouge give the tone with optical illusion motifs taking inspiration from 1971. Supple materials, mohair, shearling. silk crepe, chiffon and organza with plunged lambskin sharpens the silhouette. This “Belle fille” wears bat-wing sweater dresses, frilled ample blouses with a sassy allure accentueated by afro-beatnik necklaces and belts in cords and plastic. Every look featured excessive diagonally striped platforms.

Junko Shimada Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show Video

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Hermes Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 10th, 2010 – Halle Freyssinet

Hermes Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show Final Video

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Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2010 Collection

Wednesday March 10th, 2010 – Cour Carree du Louvre

For Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2010 collection, Marc Jacobs decided to take 2 steps back to leap 10 forward, both figuratively and literally. Starting with the tent, Louis Vuitton decided to move it over a couple of feet, just enough so that the often shunned water fountain of the Cour Carré du Louvre was now the runway centerpiece. Opening to the
bold statement “and God created a Woman”, the models walked around the fountain, counter clockwise, taking us back into time to the 60’s “Brigitte Bardot symbolizes the femininity, the sensuality… I just wanted to show beautiful women of all ages” said Jacobs backstage. Laetitia Casta, (who’s been compared to Bardot many times) opened the show, followed by Coco Rocha, Karolina Kurkova, Catherine McNeil, Israeli model Bar Rafaeli, Adriana Lima and (most unexpectedly) Elle Macpherson.  Nearly every look featured a corset either in wool, leather, shetland or pinstripe to accent the curves, sans accessories save for a few gloves, allowing for unfettered femininity to be the central focus. While we saw a tweed jacket, sequined cable-knit sweater, and a boiled wool pea jacket, the real star of the show was the iconic Louis Vuitton bag: the Speedy.

The Speedy has been reinterpreted for the Autumn-Winter 2010-2011. A new flap has been added and top handle. Reincarnated as a doctor’s bag, the monogram has been flocked and sequined, woven in metallic thread, remade in cloque, and in guipure lace over Duchess satin. The Damier patern has been recreated in fox, shaved goat and handpainted crocodile. And in its simplest form, the Speedy has been rendered in waxed calf and reconfigured as a doctor’s bag in grainy, supple calfskin.

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Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show Final Video

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