Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2011 Collection |

Wednesday October 6, 2010 – Cour Carree du Louvre

Very rarely is it the case wherein a designer challenges his audience to look at themselves through his creative looking glass. Yet for his Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2011 collection, Marc Jacobs did just that with his take on Sonia Sontag’s “Notes on camp”. For the non-literati, the term ‘camp’ and its connotation for “exaggerated theatrical behavior to the point of hilarity”, certainly gave pause to a few in attendance.

Set on a black marble runway footed by large stuffed tigers at the mouth of the catwalk, few knew what to expect as they scurried to get into their seats quickly (Marc is notorious for starting his show 1 minute early).
Yet from the first look, two words undeniably came to mind: “Chinoiserie Glamour”. A difficulat concept to digest in the Western world, some couldn’t help but wonder if Marc was toying with his audience’s sensibilities. But as the show progressed, it became quite clear that this collection was more thoughtful than hurried; detailed embroidery, crystal tassels on kimonos, and ornate details were nothing short of hidden gems embedded in plain sight.

But when Louis Vuitton CEO Yves Carcelle was interviewed backstage about the possible marketing direction of the show, he smirked and replied “Nobody can tell Marc Jacobs what to do…”. Deflecting any suggestion that the fashion house was pandering to its large and profitable Asian markets, Yves quipped “Everything is undecided until the last minute by the house artistic director, nothing is planned…”

Marketing or not, this Spring collection had a lot to admire about it. Louis Vuitton logo-ed lace tops, knit fluid dresses with large sequined belts easily give neutral tones and simple wear (ergo your classic jeans and a shirt) a whole new dimension. But if you’re still looking for those camp elements, look no further than the floral patterns on black A-Line dresses, a panda bear white sequined top and a trifecta of tiger, zebra and giraffe prints on knitted sweaters and silk two-pieces.

Accessories-wise, shoes were given giraffe-shaped heels encrusted with crystals and tassels while handbags were downsized into clutches and small shoulder purses. Brightly colored patent leather clutches featured rhinestone locks and luggage tags. Some Monogram Canvas clutches bore velvet and python trims, sequin patches over the Monogram Canvas which we suspect will land on the classic Monogram Speedy as well and other iconic classic bags in time for the Summer.

Fittingly, if there was ever an opportunity to end a collection with an over-the-top ‘bang’, now was Marc’s golden opportunity. With a Monogram rhinestone ball-shaped minaudière dangling to her side, a torso-zebra-print-painted Kristen McMenamy closed the show.

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Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2011 Backstage & Fashion Show Video